Cutting the Mustard, at Last

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Byline: Julia Reed

Sammy Cahn was clearly not a foodie. His lyrics to "My Kind of Town" give nods to Chicago's many charms and attractions, from the Wrigley Building to "razzmatazz and all that jazz." But not a single word is devoted to the city's contributions to American cuisine, most notably the Chicago-style hot dog and the deep-dish pizza. Now, more than 40 years after the song was written, Chicago also has the distinction of being one of the handful of American destinations (including New York, L.A., Las Vegas, and California's Bay Area) to warrant its own Michelin guide.

The guide was first published in France in 1900 to encourage newly minted motorists to hit the road. Five years ago, it finally arrived in New York, and for the past two years a team of 10 Michelin inspectors has been quietly eating its way through Chicago. The result will be released on Nov. 17 and will include more than 300 restaurants, says the guide's worldwide director, Jean-Luc Naret. Of those, not all will receive stars, and the top category is so exclusive that there are fewer than 100 three-star restaurants among the 25 guides worldwide. Grant Achatz, Chicago's guru of molecular gastronomy, said he "firmly believes" there are four three-star restaurants in his hometown, but refused to name names. In addition to his own Alinea, where the tasting menu can number upwards of 25 courses, the top tier will almost certainly include Charlie Trotter, who set the standard for French-American food in the city when he opened his eponymous restaurant 22 years ago.

The city's many hot-dog and pizza spots won't make the cut--but not for lack of tastiness, or "skill in preparing [ingredients] and in combining flavors," one of the guide's criteria. …