By Gleiner, Sky Barsch
E Magazine , Vol. 21, No. 6
If you think Hawaii is all beach bums and Mai Tais, look no further than Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. The active and unpredictable 333,086-acre park is a fascinating--and humbling--up-close look at the earth's underbelly. Hiking over the steaming caldera (cauldron-like depressions) and catching sight of flowing lava offers a perspective that's as beautiful as it is unsettling.
The park stretches from the world's largest (by volume) volcano, Mauna Loa (13,677 feet), to another volcano, Kilauea (4,190 feet), south and east to the Pacific Ocean, and is surrounded by diverse terrain that includes both rainforest and desert. Unlike visiting Yellowstone National Park, with its largely predictable geyser, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is an ever-changing, wild landscape.
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These days, visitors are flocking to Halema'uma'u, a crater in the summit of Kilauea and the home of the Hawaiian goddess Pele, according to local mythology. The crater has been erupting since March 2008, when the long-quiet cavity spit up rocks "the size of grapefruits" that damaged a nearby viewing area and road, according to Park Ranger Rob Ely. That event has given the park experience a new injection of excitement, as the last time the crater erupted was 1982. During the day you can watch the sulfur dioxide and water plumes rise from the 270-foot-deep crater. At dusk, as Park Ranger Mardie Lane explains, you can see "an intense orange glow" from the molten lava 300 feet below the crater floor. There's no predicting exactly what you'll see on any given day. Whatever will happen, says Ely, is "Pele's secret."
And there's plenty beyond staring down the depths of the craters themselves. The Kilauea Iki Trail offers a four-mile hike that starts in a rainforest full of massive, prehistoric-looking ferns, and descends 400 feet into the Kilauea Iki Crater, once a lava lake. …