In medieval times, garlic was thought to ward off werewolves and vampires. Very likely. The trouble is that it also wards off your friends and relations. In spite of garlic's sometimes overwhelming fragrance, it remains a valuable flavoring ingredient. Heat can tame its acridity, as devotees of roasted garlic cloves will testify. In stews such as Fred Hill's, long and slow cooking will transform garlic into a scarcely identifiable, yet memorably warm and complex flavor.
His veal stew has many of the ingredients of osso buco, but it leaves out the shin bone in favor of veal stew meat. Our taste panel loved the stew, and tasters were surprised to find that it contained 12 cloves of garlic. . We would not have had the temerity to recommend such a dish otherwise. The garlic may, however, have lost its efficacy against vampires.
Garlic Veal Stew
2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil or salad
2 pounds boneless veal stew, cut
into 11/2- to 2-inch cubes
1 large onion, chopped
12 cloves garlic, halved
11/2 pounds Roma-style tomatoes,
peeled, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
1 cup tomato juice
3/4 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup Spanish-style pimiento-stuffed
1 to 2 small dried hot red chilies
Salt and pepper
Pour 2 tablespoons oil into a 5- to 6-quart pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add meat, a portion at a time, and turn pieces until browned. Lift meat out and set aside. Add onion, and more oil if needed, to pan; stir often until onion is limp and slightly browned, about 10 minutes. Stir in garlic, tomatoes, tomato juice, wine, olives, meat, and chilies to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce beat, and simmer until meat is very tender when pierced, 1 to 1 1/4 hours; uncover and simmer until liquid is reduced to quantity desired.
Discard chilies, then skim and discard any fat from juices; season stew with salt and pepper to taste. Makes 4 to 6 servings. Per serving : 361 cal; 31 g protein; 11 g carbo; 21 g fat, 107 mg chol.; 533 mg sodium.
The classic way of serving mussels is mariniere-steamed with white wine, butter, shallots, perhaps parsley or other herbs. From Edmonds, Washington, Eric Lie sends us an elegant Oriental variation. One essential ingredient of both preparations is the liquid given up by the mussels as they steam and open. The result should be a broth which has a strong savor of the sea. The ingredients listed below enhance this savor without overwhelming it.
We entirely agree with Mr. Lie when he says that his recipe is a cut above the usual restaurant offering.
Steamed Mussels, Oriental-style
2 to 2 1/2 pounds mussels or clams
suitable for steaming in their shells, well scrubbed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon Oriental sesame oil
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1/4 cup rice vinegar
1/2 cup rice wine