Enemy at the Gate ; America's Toe-Hold Territory in Cuba Has Long Been a Thorn in Fidel Castro's Side. Now with the World's Attention Focused on Guantanamo Bay, Cuba Is Keen to Discredit - and Profit from - Its Old Foe

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"One Fidel Castro, there's only one Fidel Castro..." The crowds at the baseball stadium in the Cuban city of Guantanamo have not been known to chant that between innings, but they know the tune better than any British soccer fan. They also know the proper words. "Guantanamera" was written in the 1930s as a tribute to a Cuban peasant, a country girl from the province of Guantanamo - the bitter end of Cuba, a region that is as beautiful as it is neglected by visitors to the island. Guantanamo is also wounded by fate: it is the location for the world's last Berlin.

Beneath the bare mountains of eastern Cuba, capitalism and communism glare at each other across a lethal …