MIDWEEK TRAVEL: SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND: Budapest ; It's a City of Two Halves, Says BEN ROSS. on One Side of the Danube You'll Find a Historic Castle and an Art Nouveau Spa; on the Other, Lively Bars and Clubs

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WHY GO NOW?

Locals are justly proud of Budapest's musical heritage: Franz Liszt (1811-86), Bela Bartok (1881-1945) and Zoltan Kodaly (1882- 1967) are all name-checked on road signs as favourite sons. But the city doesn't rest on its musical laurels: the annual Autumn Festival, which runs until 31 October, is in full swing, featuring contemporary music, opera, film, and photography. For further information, call the Hungarian National Tourist Office (020-7823 1032; www.hungarytourism.hu) or consult www.festivalcity.hu. Autumn in Budapest's tree-lined boulevards is beautiful, and the weather, although unpredictable, has not descended to the chill of January and February. …