If you want people to think out of the box, it helps to get them out of the box first. [At Vogue] I'm much happier working with a small team of visionaries than an army of functionaries. It means we can mesh fashion and arts stories and social criticism.
Speaking of visionaries, I have always been an admirer of the spunky, visually arresting titles that London is so good at: ID, Dazed & Confused, Another, and now Ten. What they have is an original point-of-view, and an ability to create cultural shifts rather than react to them.
Of course this is exactly what Vogue does " and the similarities don't end there. These hip little magazines are often working with the same celebrities, photographers, and designers that we work with. One of the most interesting developments in the fashion magazine business over the past decade has been a revolution in our sense of size.
These days, to be big you have to think small, and to be small you have to think big. Let me give a couple of examples: we're as likely as Dazed & Confused to break the story about a cool pair of platforms or an African dress suddenly available in the Archway. …