It was supposed to be the season that Paris stole the shows; the season when the new guard of French fashion pulled rank and showed the rest of the world the path that leads to the sartorial future.
Not since the beginning of the decade have there been quite so many off- schedule shows that promised great things. And at least new names are emerging from a scene that has been stagnant too long. The bright hopes that have been brought into the luxury goods houses, from Michael Kors at Celine and Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton to Narciso Rodriguez at the Spanish leather house, Loewe, have proved that their jobs are to be safe and commercial - to sell bags, shoes and leather belts. There are few innovations there. And at Balenciaga, the 26-year-old French designer, Nicolas Ghesquiere - who, along with one of the new Belgians on the block, Olivier Theyskens, has forged a good relationship with Madonna's stylist, which is always a clever move - is taking himself and his severely modernist collection far too seriously at so young an age.
There were some high spots: An and Arikx Vandevorst, the partnership from Antwerp, showed their first collection on the Paris runway. The theme of their collection was "clothes that look like you slept in them". And that is just what the models did. The show took place in a makeshift dormitory with a bed for each model to sleep on until it was her time to take her sleepy head up and down the catwalk to show off their crumpled, layered looks. AF Vandevorst have a hard act to follow. The Belgians in Paris, who are now well established, include Martin Margiela. He showed his favourite ideas from the past three years in a typically informal show where the models dressed in trompe -l'oeil prints and patched- together denim strolled through the dilapidated house of socialite Sao Schlumberger in semi-darkness. Ann Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten also offered more highlights in a week when they were few and far between. Sharon Wauchob is Irish, an ex-graduate of Central Saint Martins. There was an impressive turnout of buyers and press to see her second show, and there were some pretty clothes and gentle shapes that were well worth the trip. Sharon also designs for Louis Vuitton and she knows how to make her creativity sellable. And there was Gaspard Yurkievich who showed his linear, geometric and elegant collection on models who walked before the audience on imaginary high heels. For really conceptual footwear, Benoit Meleard launched his first shoe collection, cleverly cashing in on an area of fashion not too over- subscribed. Previously, he has worked for Charles Jourdan and Robert Clergerie. He has also designed the shoes for the American upstart, Jeremy Scott, which is perhaps something he should keep quiet about. Scott has, it seems, become a victim of his own hype and his exaggerated pointy shoulders are almost as ridiculous as his ego. Best of all was ex-Helmut Lang assistant, Kostas Murkudis, who drew lightly from his Greek background with references to the uniforms of the Greek army, but who showed a collection that pinpointed all the key trends, delivered a strong and original point of view, and had a lightness of touch and a sense of humour. There were dresses decorated with strands of brightly coloured ribbon (ribbons were a recurring theme throughout the shows), punky raw edges and zips, as well as the inevitable military- utility that will sell. Murkudis already has several outlets in the UK - not only does he have ideas and creativity, he has sorted out his commercial side as well - and he is a name worth watching. It was not the new names who stole the shows, however, much as press and buyers wanted them to. Karl Lagerfeld re-invented Chanel, designing his collection around the new space age 2005 aerodynamically moulded bag. It is a smart move, giving the label a whole new lease of life. …