09.00: Eat breakfast at The Raleigh (1) (00 1 305 534 6300; raleighhotel.com). A leisurely eggs over easy under the trees by the pool - the lotus-shaped one made famous by the aquatic film legend Esther Williams - is a relaxing start to the day.
Art Deco heaven
10.30: Take a walking tour of the Art Deco District (2) with local historian Gene Grossman (00 1 305 219 6300). He's on good terms with the doorkeepers at the most beautiful Art Deco Hotels, so access shouldn't be a problem.
Taste of art
12.30: Linger in the art collection at The Sagamore (3) (00 1 305 535 8088, sag-amorehotel.com), which it shares with its sister establishment in New York, 60 Thompson. The concierge is usually cool about letting people walk in for a look.
13.00: Lunch on a huge salad at the bargain Front Porch Cafe (4) (00 1 305 531 8300). The terrace of this fine white 1948 MiMo building is a terrific vantage point from which to watch the poseurs roller skate along the beach walk and plastic-surgery constructs cruise by. If you're looking for an inexpensive oceanfront place to stay, then the recently renovated Penguin Hotel (5) (00 1 305 534 9334; penguinhotel. com), which this is part of, is a not a bad option.
14.30: Wander south from the Front Porch Cafe along Ocean Drive, past the magnificent Modernist Tides Hotel (6) (00 1 305 604 5070; thetideshotel.com) three blocks down to the Hotel Victor (7) (00 1 305 428 1234; hotelvictorsouth-beach.com). Too bad it has frosted glass; otherwise there would be great views of the roof terrace of the Versace Mansion next door. …