POIRET, PAUL

1879–1944, French couturier, b. Paris. He served an apprenticeship with Doucet in the 1890s, moved to the Maison Worth in 1900, and in 1904 opened his own small studio. Dominating Paris couture from 1909 to 1914, Poiret revolutionized fashion with his designs for the "new woman," ending wasp waists and constricting corsets and reviving a simple, Empire-waisted silhouette. Around 1910 he introduced the appropriately named hobble skirt, with volume around the hips narrowing to an ankle-hugging bottom. He created ensembles of walking coats and dresses, and short hoop "lampshade" tunics over long sheaths. Inspired by interests in art nouveau, East Asia, and the Ballets Russes, he designed jewel-colored evening gowns and such exotic costumes as coulottes, harem pants and skirts, fringed capes, and turbans. He was the first designer to produce (1911) a line of fragrances and cosmetics, and also created items for the home. World War I brought an end to Poiret's flights of fancy, and while he was active in the 1920s his designs were no longer fashionable.

See studies by P. White (1973), Y. Deslandres (1987), A. MacKrell (1990), and F. Baudot (1997).

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The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition Copyright© 2004, Columbia University Press. Licensed from Lernout & Hauspie Speech Products N.V. All rights reserved.

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Questia Books and Articles on: Poiret Paul
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books on: Poiret Paul  - 251 results

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1.
The Fauves
Book by Jean-Paul Crespelle; New York Graphic Society, 1962
Subjects: Fauvism, Painting, French
...reconstruction and was an authority on military costume. Paul Poiret once asked his advice about dressing the corps de...attended by Verlaine, Maeterlinck, Pierre Louys, and Paul Valery, or Paul Ransons Saturday teas, can be imagined. Toulouse-Lautrec...
2.
Intellectual Property and Private International Law
Book by James J. Fawcett, Paul Torremans; Oxford University Press, 1998
Subjects: Conflict Of Laws--Intellectual Property, Conflict Of Laws--Intellectual Property--Great Britain
...272 , 285 , 290 , 292 -4, 303 , 309 Po, The 1991 2 Lloyds Rep 206, CA 95 , 186 , 187 Poiret v Jules Poiret Ltd and AF Nash 1920 37 RPC 177 526 Procea Products Ltd v Evans and Sons Ltd 1951 68 RPC 210 368...
3.
Gendered Agents: Women & Institutional Knowledge
Book by Silvestra Mariniello, Paul A. Bové; Duke University Press, 1998
Subjects: Feminist Theory, Sexism In Language
...INSTITUTIONAL KNOWLEDGE Edited by Silvestra Mariniello and Paul A. Bove Duke University Press Durham London 1998 1998 Duke...responsible to the text. The steps of such a reading are laid out in Paul Celans search for Lenz embedded in "Shibboleth." But why...
4.
A Ghost Town on the Yellowstone
Book by Elliot Paul; Random House, 1948
Subjects: Fiction
...TOWN ON THE YELLOWSTONE By Elliot Paul Random House New York FIRST PRINTING...why. "Did you hear what happened in St. Paul? At the N.P. repair shop?" Joe asked Heck...because he had defied the agitators in St. Paul and taken a job in the N.P. repair shop...
5.
Costume Design on Broadway: Designers and Their Credits, 1915-1985
Book by Bobbi Owen; Greenwood Press, 1987
Subjects: Costume Designers--New York (State)--New York--Biography--Dictionaries
...a disciple of Leon Bakst and Paul Poiret, was born in Nantes in 1882 and...Costume in Act I, Scene II. With Paul Poiret: Costume in Cabaret Scene in Act...Costumes ; French Leave Act III. With Paul Fribe: Mrs. Coburns Gowns in Acts...
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journal articles on: Poiret Paul  - 6 results

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1.
'Fighting the Corsetless Evil': Shaping Corsets and Culture, 1900-1930
Journal article by Jill Fields; Journal of Social History, Vol. 33, 1999
Subjects: Clothing and dress--History, Corset--History, Women's clothing industry--History
...inhibited walking. French couturier Paul Poiret relates his claim to invention...March, 1914, pp. 201-202. (8.) Paul Poiret, My First 50 Years, pp. 72-73...the rational dress movement upon Poirets designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements...
2.
Fifty Years of Change: Societal Attitudes and Women's Fashions, 1900-1950
Journal article by Ann Beth Presley; The Historian, Vol. 60, 1998
Subjects: Fashion--Social aspects
...the fashions of the time. For example, the creations of Paul Poiret, a leading influence on fashion during this decade, expressed...56 (1994): 401. (7) Vogue, 15 August 1915, 29. (8) Paul Poiret, MY First Fifty Years (Gollanz, 1934), quoted in Elizabeth...
3.
Fairy Tale as Sexual Allegory: Intertextuality in Angela Carter's 'The Bloody Chamber
Journal article by Mary Kaiser; The Review of Contemporary Fiction, Vol. 14, 1994
Subjects: Allegory--Criticism, interpretation, etc., Carter, Angela--Criticism, interpretation, etc., Fairy tales--Criticism, interpretation, etc., Intertextuality--Criticism, interpretation, etc., The Bloody Chamber (Book)--Criticism, interpretation, etc.
...culture, among the operas of Wagner and the fashions of Paul Poiret. "The Snow Child" is set in medieval Europe, deep in a...individual is subsumed by a role. The brides dress (designed by Poiret, the inventor of the "hobble" skirt) and her wedding gift...
4.
Scavenging by Night
Journal article by Elizabeth Wilson; New Left Review, Vol. a, 1994
Subjects: Right And Left (Political Science), Socialism
...paradigmatic moments in its evolution: the pre-First World War orientalism of the Ballets Russes and the dress designer Paul Poiret; silent (American) cinema as an analogue of Fordism; Jackson Pollock; the Situationists; the Russian artists Komar...
5.
'Lady Be Beautiful': Selling Corsets in the 1920s
Journal article by Margaret Maynard; Journal of Australian Studies, 2007
Subjects: Clothing industry--Demographic aspects, Clothing industry--History, Women's clothing--History
...like Worth, and later Lucile and Paul Poiret in the early twentieth century...unusual and it was a key aspect of Paul Poirets marketing approach in France...shows in 1912 and 1913. Nancy Troy, Paul Poirets minaret style: originality, reproduction...
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magazine articles on: Poiret Paul  - 5 results

 
 
1.
The King Is Dead: With His Extravagant Designs, Paul Poiret Ruled the World of Fashion-Until Modern Simplicity Did Him In
Magazine article by Lynn Yaeger; The Atlantic Monthly, Vol. 300, September 2007
Subjects: Chanel, Coco--Evaluation, Chanel, Coco--Practice, Fashion designers--Evaluation, Fashion designers--Practice, Poiret, Paul--Evaluation, Poiret, Paul--Practice
The King Is Dead: With His Extravagant Designs, Paul Poiret Ruled the World of Fashion-Until Modern Simplicity Did...Metropolitan Museum of Art to gaze with intense desire at a 1911 Paul Poiret evening coat made of printed velvet designed by Raoul...
2.
Previews: Three Times a Year Artforum Looks Ahead to the Coming Season. the Following Survey Previews Fifty Shows Opening around the World between May and August
Magazine article; Artforum International, Vol. 45, May 2007
Subjects: Art exhibitions--Evaluation, Art--Evaluation, Art--Exhibitions
...and literalism.--Michelle Kuo Paul Poiret METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART May...understand the radicality of Paul Poirets designs, you have to compare...illustrations by Georges Lepape and Paul Iribe, furniture by Poirets atelier, and a coffee-table...
3.
Victor/Victoria: A New Queen on the Scene
Magazine article by Albert Williams; American Theatre, Vol. 12, November 1995
Subjects: Edwards, Blake--Works, Transvestism--Portrayals, depictions, etc., Victor-Victoria (Motion picture)--Production and direction
...are!" Robin Wagners Art Deco set and Willa Kims lush, camp costumes - which pay homage to such designers as Erte, Paul Poiret and Elsa Schiaparelli (one woman wears an absurd shoe-hat like the one Schiaparelli created with Salvador Dali) - greatly...
4.
All the Rage: The Art/fashion Thing
Magazine article by Bruce Hainley; Artforum International, Vol. 34, March 1996
Subjects: Fashion and art--Criticism, interpretation, etc., Fashion--Portrayals, depictions, etc.
...creations of Charles Frederick Worth and Paul Poiret (the designer responsible for, in...Fleurys sawiest pieces, Victor and Jean-Paul, 1995, is a close-up photo of her...Gaultier unitard. Victor and Jean-Paul could be pet names for her breasts...
5.
Style Council
Magazine article by Darryl Turner; Artforum International, Vol. 35, October 1996
Subjects: Celant, Germano--Interviews, Fashion shows--Reports, Sischy, Ingrid--Interviews
...fashion but not in a traditional way. That history shows that fashion is a part of contemporary language. Top couturiers - Paul Poiret, Mainbocher - were always buying de Chirico, supporting the avant-garde. This affinity is what we wish to examine, not...


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newspaper articles on: Poiret Paul  - 13 results

       More newspaper Results: 1-10 11-13 >>  
 
1.
The Summer Britain Discovered Sex; as the Country Sweltered through the Hottest (and Most Scandalous) Summer of the Century, Necklines Plunged, Corsets Gave Way to the Bra and Even Tennis Was Played in the Nude. Now a New Book Reveals How 1911 Saw Britain's First Sexual Revolution
Newspaper article; The Daily Mail (London, England), June 19, 2006
...little room for seduction. Designer Paul Poiret described undressing a paramour as akin to the capture of a fortress. Poirets new bras simplified matters, and...of the innovative French couturier Poiret, and forced women to totter like...
2.
Take It to the Stage
Newspaper article; The Journal (Newcastle, England), May 9, 2005
...inclined to look rather frail. Theres a couple of references to designers of the day. "Youve spilled champagne on my (Paul) Poiret," declares Dorothy Parker to the hapless Millie in the party scene which, to be fair, is dominated by the most glamorous...
3.
THE ULTIMATE GLOSSY POSSE; on the Stellar Night Hollywood Met the Catwalk in New York, the Winners.And the Also-Rans
Newspaper article; The Daily Mail (London, England), May 9, 2007
...Metropolitan Museum. Hosted by American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, the night was to celebrate the work of French designer Paul Poiret, whose fashions from the early 20th century transformed the way women dressed. The grande dame and her daughter After...
4.
80 Years Old And-Still Fascinating
Newspaper article; The Mail on Sunday (London, England), November 4, 2006
Subjects: Clothing industry, Donna Karan Corp., House of Chanel
...It was very definitely below stairs. Fellow couturier Paul Poiret - a man renowned for his lavish brocades, turbans and...Who are you in mourning for, Mademoiselle Chanel? asked Poiret, surveying Chanels sober ensemble. For you, monsieur...
5.
101 AMAZING THINGS YOU NEVER KNEW ABOUT BRAS!; Mamillare, Throat Support, Sleeved Vest or Even Bustenhalter - Whatever You Care to Call It There's Much More to the Bra Than You Thought, as HILARY KINGSLEY Reveals
Newspaper article by Hilary Kingsley; The People (London, England), April 7, 1996
...bra-wearers. At the turn of the century, French couturier Paul Poiret produced a garment which achieved breasts that "rise forth...workers at the Silhouette factory in Banbury last year. Paul Keating, Australias former Prime Minister, told journalists...
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encyclopedia articles on: Poiret Paul  - 3 results

 
 
1.
Poiret, Paul
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
POIRET, PAUL pol pware , 1879 1944, French couturier...Dominating Paris couture from 1909 to 1914, Poiret revolutionized fashion with his designs...the home. World War I brought an end to Poirets flights of fancy, and though he was active...
2.
ErtÉ
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
...designer and illustrator, b. St. Petersburg as Romain de Tirtoff. He moved to France and worked for a time sketching for Paul Poiret and designing opera and theater costumes. Between 1914 and the 1930s he created many magazine covers for Harpers Bazaar...
3.
Dufy, Raoul
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
...and turned c.1905 to the more spontaneous expression of fauvism . For a time he designed fabrics for the dressmaker Paul Poiret and illustrated books, including the writings of Apollinaire, Mallarme, and Gide. Using swift, stenographic brushstrokes...


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