POIRET, PAUL

1879–1944, French couturier, b. Paris. He served an apprenticeship with Doucet in the 1890s, moved to the Maison Worth in 1900, and in 1904 opened his own small studio. Dominating Paris couture from 1909 to 1914, Poiret revolutionized fashion with his designs for the "new woman," ending wasp waists and constricting corsets and reviving a simple, Empire-waisted silhouette. Around 1910 he introduced the appropriately named hobble skirt, with volume around the hips narrowing to an ankle-hugging bottom. He created ensembles of walking coats and dresses, and short hoop "lampshade" tunics over long sheaths. Inspired by interests in art nouveau, East Asia, and the Ballets Russes, he designed jewel-colored evening gowns and such exotic costumes as coulottes, harem pants and skirts, fringed capes, and turbans. He was the first designer to produce (1911) a line of fragrances and cosmetics, and also created items for the home. World War I brought an end to Poiret's flights of fancy, and while he was active in the 1920s his designs were no longer fashionable.

See studies by P. White (1973), Y. Deslandres (1987), A. MacKrell (1990), and F. Baudot (1997).

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The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition Copyright© 2004, Columbia University Press. Licensed from Lernout & Hauspie Speech Products N.V. All rights reserved.

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Questia Books and Articles on: Poiret Paul
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books on: Poiret Paul  - 251 results

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1.
The Fauves
Book by Jean-Paul Crespelle; New York Graphic Society, 1962
Subjects: Fauvism, Painting, French
...reconstruction and was an authority on military costume. Paul Poiret once asked his advice about dressing the corps de...attended by Verlaine, Maeterlinck, Pierre Louys, and Paul Valery, or Paul Ransons Saturday teas, can be imagined. Toulouse-Lautrec...
2.
Intellectual Property and Private International Law
Book by James J. Fawcett, Paul Torremans; Oxford University Press, 1998
Subjects: Conflict Of Laws--Intellectual Property, Conflict Of Laws--Intellectual Property--Great Britain
...272 , 285 , 290 , 292 -4, 303 , 309 Po, The 1991 2 Lloyds Rep 206, CA 95 , 186 , 187 Poiret v Jules Poiret Ltd and AF Nash 1920 37 RPC 177 526 Procea Products Ltd v Evans and Sons Ltd 1951 68 RPC 210 368...
3.
Gendered Agents: Women & Institutional Knowledge
Book by Silvestra Mariniello, Paul A. Bové; Duke University Press, 1998
Subjects: Feminist Theory, Sexism In Language
...INSTITUTIONAL KNOWLEDGE Edited by Silvestra Mariniello and Paul A. Bove Duke University Press Durham London 1998 1998 Duke...responsible to the text. The steps of such a reading are laid out in Paul Celans search for Lenz embedded in "Shibboleth." But why...
4.
A Ghost Town on the Yellowstone
Book by Elliot Paul; Random House, 1948
Subjects: Fiction
...TOWN ON THE YELLOWSTONE By Elliot Paul Random House New York FIRST PRINTING...why. "Did you hear what happened in St. Paul? At the N.P. repair shop?" Joe asked Heck...because he had defied the agitators in St. Paul and taken a job in the N.P. repair shop...
5.
Costume Design on Broadway: Designers and Their Credits, 1915-1985
Book by Bobbi Owen; Greenwood Press, 1987
Subjects: Costume Designers--New York (State)--New York--Biography--Dictionaries
...a disciple of Leon Bakst and Paul Poiret, was born in Nantes in 1882 and...Costume in Act I, Scene II. With Paul Poiret: Costume in Cabaret Scene in Act...Costumes ; French Leave Act III. With Paul Fribe: Mrs. Coburns Gowns in Acts...
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journal articles on: Poiret Paul  - 10 results

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1.
Fashioning Cléopâtre: Sonia Delaunay's New Woman
Journal article by Juliet Bellow; Art Journal, Vol. 68, 2009
Subjects: Ballet, Costume design, Women
...obscuring turban patterned after Paul Poiret s confections of the moment. To...garment was fabricated at one of Poirets ateliers.8 Associated with the controversial...fashionable couture houses of Lucile, Poiret, or Worth. Dancers also were used...
2.
Sleep Deprived and Ultramodern: How Novels Turned Dream Girls into Insomniacs
Journal article by Lois Cucullu; Novel, Vol. 42, 2009
Subjects: Insomnia, Models, Novels
...and Chicago, and her Parisian rival Paul Poiret, who also successfully marketed his...innovation did not end here. Lucile and Poiret were also responsible for turning...critic, and contemporary of Lucile and Poiret, tellingly observed the effect of...
3.
Fashion Design and Social Change: Women Designers and Stylistic Innovation
Journal article by Diana Crane; Journal of American Culture, Vol. 22, 1999
Subjects: Clothing industry, Designers, England, Fashion, France, Men, Social change, United States, Women
...in their careers but later have taken their cues from the arts or the history of fashion design. The French designer Paul Poiret is probably one of the best known fashion innovators because he dramatically reshaped the style of womens clothes at...
4.
Fashioning the College Woman: Dress, Gender, and Sexuality at Smith College in the 1920s
Journal article by Kendra Van Cleave; The Journal of American Culture, Vol. 32, 2009
Subjects: Clothing, College campuses, Colleges & universities, Fashion, Hair, Models, Motion picture industry, Political activism, Roles, Sexuality, Smith College, Women
...molded female figure of earlier centuries. The silhouette of the 1920s, evolving from the designs of French couturier Paul Poiret introduced in 1908, incorporated comparatively looser construction, shorter skirts, and more relaxed foundation garments...
5.
'Fighting the Corsetless Evil': Shaping Corsets and Culture, 1900-1930
Journal article by Jill Fields; Journal of Social History, Vol. 33, 1999
Subjects: Clothing and dress--History, Corset--History, Women's clothing industry--History
...inhibited walking. French couturier Paul Poiret relates his claim to invention...March, 1914, pp. 201-202. (8.) Paul Poiret, My First 50 Years, pp. 72-73...the rational dress movement upon Poirets designs. Fashion layouts and advertisements...
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magazine articles on: Poiret Paul  - 6 results

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1.
The King Is Dead: With His Extravagant Designs, Paul Poiret Ruled the World of Fashion-Until Modern Simplicity Did Him In
Magazine article by Lynn Yaeger; The Atlantic Monthly, Vol. 300, September 2007
Subjects: Chanel, Coco--Evaluation, Chanel, Coco--Practice, Fashion designers--Evaluation, Fashion designers--Practice, Poiret, Paul--Evaluation, Poiret, Paul--Practice
The King Is Dead: With His Extravagant Designs, Paul Poiret Ruled the World of Fashion-Until Modern Simplicity Did...Metropolitan Museum of Art to gaze with intense desire at a 1911 Paul Poiret evening coat made of printed velvet designed by Raoul...
2.
Previews: Three Times a Year Artforum Looks Ahead to the Coming Season. the Following Survey Previews Fifty Shows Opening around the World between May and August
Magazine article; Artforum International, Vol. 45, May 2007
Subjects: Art exhibitions--Evaluation, Art--Evaluation, Art--Exhibitions
...and literalism.--Michelle Kuo Paul Poiret METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART May...understand the radicality of Paul Poirets designs, you have to compare...illustrations by Georges Lepape and Paul Iribe, furniture by Poirets atelier, and a coffee-table...
3.
Victor/Victoria: A New Queen on the Scene
Magazine article by Albert Williams; American Theatre, Vol. 12, November 1995
Subjects: Edwards, Blake--Works, Transvestism--Portrayals, depictions, etc., Victor-Victoria (Motion picture)--Production and direction
...are!" Robin Wagners Art Deco set and Willa Kims lush, camp costumes - which pay homage to such designers as Erte, Paul Poiret and Elsa Schiaparelli (one woman wears an absurd shoe-hat like the one Schiaparelli created with Salvador Dali) - greatly...
4.
Dedicated Follower of Fashion: When He Accepted a Job at Conde Nast, Edward Steichen Was Criticised for "Selling Out"-But He Turned Commercial Photography into a True Art Form
Magazine article by Emily Mitchell; New Statesman, Vol. 137, September 29, 2008
Subjects: Images, Photographic--Evaluation, Photographers--Biography, Photographs--Evaluation, Steichen, Edward--Biography
...him in the early 1900s. In 1911, Steichen took some of the earliest fashion photographs: his pictures of designs by Paul Poiret are included in the volume and testify to his already developed ability to depict the clothed, posed body in compelling...
5.
Style Council
Magazine article by Darryl Turner; Artforum International, Vol. 35, October 1996
Subjects: Celant, Germano--Interviews, Fashion shows--Reports, Sischy, Ingrid--Interviews
...fashion but not in a traditional way. That history shows that fashion is a part of contemporary language. Top couturiers - Paul Poiret, Mainbocher - were always buying de Chirico, supporting the avant-garde. This affinity is what we wish to examine, not...
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newspaper articles on: Poiret Paul  - 15 results

       More newspaper Results: 1-10 11-15 >>  
 
1.
Black Never Loses Its Power
Newspaper article; Manila Bulletin, November 1, 2008
...the 1920s, Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel and others popularized black, in response to all the color being used by designer Paul Poiret. Fashion influentials like Cristobal Balenciaga and Christian Dior also used a lot of black, the better to focus on...
2.
Curse of the Spider Woman
Newspaper article; The Evening Standard (London, England), October 19, 2007
...so many decades on? Though in her adolescent years they wintered her in fashionable Cannes andbought her clothes from Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel, she was 20 when examinedfor her high school baccalaureat, for as a child they gave her no formaleducation...
3.
THE ULTIMATE GLOSSY POSSE; on the Stellar Night Hollywood Met the Catwalk in New York, the Winners.And the Also-Rans
Newspaper article; The Daily Mail (London, England), May 9, 2007
...Metropolitan Museum. Hosted by American Vogue editor Anna Wintour, the night was to celebrate the work of French designer Paul Poiret, whose fashions from the early 20th century transformed the way women dressed. The grande dame and her daughter After...
4.
The Summer Britain Discovered Sex; as the Country Sweltered through the Hottest (and Most Scandalous) Summer of the Century, Necklines Plunged, Corsets Gave Way to the Bra and Even Tennis Was Played in the Nude. Now a New Book Reveals How 1911 Saw Britain's First Sexual Revolution
Newspaper article; The Daily Mail (London, England), June 19, 2006
...little room for seduction. Designer Paul Poiret described undressing a paramour as akin to the capture of a fortress. Poirets new bras simplified matters, and...of the innovative French couturier Poiret, and forced women to totter like...
5.
80 Years Old And-Still Fascinating
Newspaper article; The Mail on Sunday (London, England), November 4, 2006
Subjects: Clothing industry, Donna Karan Corp., House of Chanel
...It was very definitely below stairs. Fellow couturier Paul Poiret - a man renowned for his lavish brocades, turbans and...Who are you in mourning for, Mademoiselle Chanel? asked Poiret, surveying Chanels sober ensemble. For you, monsieur...
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encyclopedia articles on: Poiret Paul  - 3 results

 
 
1.
Poiret, Paul
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
POIRET, PAUL pol pware , 1879 1944, French couturier...Dominating Paris couture from 1909 to 1914, Poiret revolutionized fashion with his designs...the home. World War I brought an end to Poirets flights of fancy, and though he was active...
2.
ErtÉ
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
...designer and illustrator, b. St. Petersburg as Romain de Tirtoff. He moved to France and worked for a time sketching for Paul Poiret and designing opera and theater costumes. Between 1914 and the 1930s he created many magazine covers for Harpers Bazaar...
3.
Dufy, Raoul
Encyclopedia article; The Columbia Encyclopedia, Sixth Edition, 2009
...and turned c.1905 to the more spontaneous expression of fauvism . For a time he designed fabrics for the dressmaker Paul Poiret and illustrated books, including the writings of Apollinaire, Mallarme, and Gide. Using swift, stenographic brushstrokes...


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