India's Rich and Poor Alike Enjoy 'People's Fruit' ; for Two Weeks, Mercedes and Rickshaws Ply New Delhi's Streets to Buy Jamun from Enterprising Families Who Come to Harvest and Sell

Article excerpt

The monsoon rains are clearing the New Delhi air of dust, and putting an emerald sheen on the stately jamun trees that line the wide boulevards designed by Edward Lutyens in the 1920s. For 50 weeks a year, the jamun trees provide gracious shade and aesthetic pleasure to capital dwellers.

But in early July, the trees do more. They yield a small and unusual plum-like fruit that turns the fashionable streets of Janpath and Ashok into a drive-up, open-air market. Hundreds of jamun sellers, children, and grandparents line the road, tending little piles of the ripe black plums that fall from above.

Business is brisk. Shiny Mercedes jockey with sputtering auto rickshaws and wily scooters to park and partake of the fruit, which goes for about 20 cents a pound.

Fruitwise, it must be said, the jamun is nothing extraordinary, The plums don't command the culinary clout of your top-shelf seasonal delicacies like mango or pear. Jamuns look like a cross between an olive, a plum, and a cherry, and have an oversized seed and an ambiguous, grapey taste that variously chemicalizes in the mouth between slightly sweet and slightly sour. Locals dip it in salt.

No one has ever heard of a jamun orchard, making it something of an egalitarian "people's" fruit. In fact in Punjab, the northwest Indian state, it is known as "the poor man's fruit."

In just this sense, the roadside jamun scene is an example of the small but well-defined stitching in the complex social and economic tapestry called India. …