Alexandria Picks Up Pieces of Its Ancient Past ; City Hopes to Attract Tourists, Revive Economy

Article excerpt

Archaeologists in this north coastal city are recovering pieces of ancient history - a faceless Pharaonic statue, a Greek torso, a black granite stela that stands 6-1/2 feet tall and is covered with hieroglyphs. They are remnants of the recently discovered city of Heracleion, an ancient port city known for its extravagant architecture and decadent lifestyle. An earthquake razed it around 1,000 years ago, eventually sending it to the bottom of the sea.

Recent discoveries here, like Heracleion, have been a boon to Alexandria, a city reeling from decades of economic troubles, cultural stagnation, and neglect that began when Egypt nationalized its private businesses four decades ago.

After Alexander the Great discovered Alexandria in 332 BC, it became a commercial and cultural center, with its Bibliotheca Alexandrina, the most famous library of antiquity, and the towering Pharos lighthouse, one of the seven wonders of the world. Later it was the scene of Cleopatra and Antony's illicit love affair.

Even in modern times, Alexandria was one of the world's most cosmopolitan cities. Its diverse population of Greeks, British, French, and Egyptians lived in a city of stately villas with lush gardens, theaters, and elegant tea rooms. But today, only remnants of that past - an old pastry shop, a sidewalk cafe - peep out from the masses of people, metallic high rises, and jammed thoroughfares in this city of 4.5 million.

The tide changed in 1995, when a French archaeological team announced its discovery of the 500-foot Pharos lighthouse that sank 1,000 years ago. City officials and the business community seized on the discoveries, hoping to draw tourists and business here. They are investing in infrastructure and beautifying the city. One of their proudest achievements has been the rebuilding of the Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which was believed to have been destroyed by fire in 48 BC. It is due to open in April.

Since these efforts began, hotel occupancy has nearly doubled during the slower winter months. …