Paddle-Wheeler Sails into History A Lake Nasser Cruise Ship Opens Up Ancient Nubian Sites Closed to Tourists for Decades Series: WORLD CRUISES. Shipboard Trips Are Booming: Passengers Are Up, Prices Are Down, and Bigger Boats Will Soon Be in Service. Today the Monitor Takes Readers on a Few Voyages. Third of Five Articles Appearing Today

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EGYPT'S latest holiday experience is a cruise around Lake Nasser, a pristine inland sea in the midst of Egypt's southern desert.

This is the region known throughout history as Nubia, once the cultural gateway to Africa's heartland and still rich in the relics of its Pharaonic, Greek, Roman, Christian, and Islamic heritage, stretching back 5,000 years.

Since the early 1960s, most of Nubia has been inundated by Lake Nasser, the world's largest man-made lake, created by the damming of the Nile River. Dotted around the shores of the reservoir, which stretches south for 500 miles, are ancient monuments saved from its blue waters by a huge international effort that began four decades ago.

Yet many of these unique tombs, temples, and fortresses have been off-limits to visitors since they were salvaged, isolated by tight military restrictions and the lack of roads. That situation changed earlier this year when a new deluxe cruise ship, the Eugenie, began touring Lake Nasser.

This offbeat adventure is ideally suited for the amateur or professional Egyptologist who wants relief from the crush around the ancient sites farther north in the Nile Valley. Here, one can explore monuments rarely seen by the public.

"This ship has made an amazing difference," says Urs Masche of Basel University in Switzerland. "Until recently it was nearly impossible to see these temples. You could hire a Land Rover in Aswan and drive through the desert, but the sites themselves were surrounded by barbed wire and guarded by the military, and they absolutely refused access." Dr. Masche is one of many Egyptologists who are enchanted by the opportunity to see these monuments from the comfort of the Eugenie, rather than trekking through the desert.

The Eugenie, operated by Belle Epoque Tours of Cairo, was built just south of the dam and launched last winter. Behind its facade of a Mississippi paddle-wheeler, it is a 240-foot-long modern cruise ship with all the elegance of a turn-of-the-century luxury hotel, complete with a Jacuzzi and swimming pool. The cabins are comfortable and beautifully finished in wood, leather, and natural fabrics. The decor mixes the austere designs of ancient Nubia with the comfort of an English club, complete with antique furniture. Plastic does not intrude on the Eugenie. Not for the party crowd

This cruise is not for those whose priority is a wild night life. But the food and service is excellent. Breakfast and dinner are served in the formal dining room. Lunch is a substantial buffet on deck under shade.

The launching of the Eugenie has pushed the Egyptian Antiquities Organization (EAO) to clean up the ancient sites virtually abandoned since they were relocated. Workmen are already cleaning the reliefs at Wadi al-Sebua (Valley of the Lions), an Arabic name inspired by the rows of sphinxes lining the approach to a temple built by Ramses II - Pharaoh of Egypt for 67 years.

"This is the temple on which the names of Ramses II's 110 sons are recorded, as well as those of his 130 wives, daughters, and concubines," explains Ali Hassan, chief of Pharaonic antiquities for the EAO. …