Desert Dynamo Glittering by the Gulf, United Arab Emirates Powers Its 'Consumer Culture' into Overdrive

Article excerpt

The mall scene would be familiar to most Americans: children shrieking as they dig into McDonald's lunches, then tracking off across the cola-sticky floor to "Magic City."

They are drawn to the flashing lights and beeping of countless video games and carnival rides, where a minitrain packed with kids cuts through the chaos and disappears into a "cave" made up like a Robinson Crusoe fantasy.

They emerge again into this brilliant, multicolored world, where a huge screen shimmers with music videos and adds to the noise. It could be any mall in New Jersey, complete with JC Penney, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and a Levi's store. Expensive watches and designer clothing labels - even designer Arab dresses - sweeten the Western buying style. But this monument to mammon is thousands of miles from US shores and one of dozens that cater to the lavish lifestyle of the United Arab Emirates. In the once-bleak desert, where the per capita income is one of the highest in the world, spending money and easy consumerism in air-conditioned malls have become a way of life. From world records to world-class sporting events in the backyard, anything seems possible with money in this oil-rich land. Foreign workers clean away cola slicks almost as soon as they develop, and weary parents take a break from the cacophony by answering beeper messages with their mobile phones. Some women wear veils and long black gowns; others reveal far more. Outside, two new, four-wheel-drive off-road vehicles are wrapped like Christmas presents to be given away in a raffle, but so many have been handed out recently that their market price has dropped. The UAE has long had a reputation for cosmopolitan behavior and deep pockets. But its spending habits - and a national proclivity for the "big" gesture - scaled new heights in December during celebrations to mark its quarter century of independence. No expense was spared to ensure that the UAE birthday party would make the history books. Ten million lights were strung up in the capital, Abu Dhabi, and some 4,000 fireworks shells - twice as many as normally light up the Fourth of July shindig in Washington, according to one American diplomat - entertained awestruck spectators. The largest cake in the world stretched its 69-ton mass for 1-1/2 miles through the streets, crushing the tables it was laid upon. It disappeared within minutes - before it could be auctioned off for charity, as planned - when rumors swept the crowd that hidden inside was the key to a new car. A 1,200-yard UAE flag was paraded through the streets, and Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan al-Nahyan, the UAE ruler since independence in 1971, was presented with the largest bouquet of flowers - 45 square yards - ever assembled. "They want to put this place on the map, and they are doing that all right," says one US-educated foreign worker. That aim is even more evident in the commitment of Dubai, the most business-oriented of the seven emirates, to bring world-class sporting events to the country. …