New Hong Kong Bears Striking Similarity to Old 'Nothing Seems Very Different' Is a Common Refrain Heard 100 Days after China's Takeover

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A Modern-day Rip Van Winkle who fell asleep a year ago and woke up today would hardly realize that the British left Hong Kong three months ago.

The street cars still trundle down Queen's Road. The policemen wear the same uniforms, and Rip would have to look very closely to note that the official flower has replaced the royal crest on their cap badges.

China's People's Liberation Army moved into Hong Kong with considerable fanfare on the morning of July 1 and disappeared into its barracks never to be seen again. Its headquarters in what is still known as the Prince of Wales Building often looks deserted. About the only thing Rip might notice are the new red-and-white flags of Hong Kong flying where the British Union Jack used to flutter. Oh yes, and the familiar red Royal Mail post office boxes have been painted green. Other than those, the "new" Hong Kong looks, feels, and operates remarkably like the old Hong Kong. "It's business as usual," Chief Executive Tung Chee Hwa tells everyone he meets these days. His first state-of-the-territory speech Wednesday also marked the first 100 days of Chinese rule. In it, he set out a series of policies from building more affordable housing to creating high-tech industrial parks, from increasing new welfare payments to the elderly to new railroads. He also promised vigorous action to maintain Hong Kong's economic competitiveness. Only once during his 125-minute speech did he touch on politics. He reaffirmed his commitment to open, law-based government, and announced that legislative elections will be held in May. The election rules ensure the dominance of business leaders, professionals, and pro-China candidates. But despite these democratic setbacks, many residents say life is, in many ways, the same. Journalists debate endlessly the degree to which they censor themselves, pull punches, or otherwise try to accommodate a more patriotic line in their reporting, while mainly going about the business of printing the news. "Nothing seems very different," says Sophia Woodman, director of Human Rights in China, which continues to publish its magazine China Rights Forum. The dissident magazine Beijing Spring can still be found on newsstands and "The Gate of Heavenly Peace," a hard-hitting documentary on the June 4, 1989 Tiananmen massacre, is easily available. Hong Kong's promised autonomy in financial affairs got a test during this summer as speculators attacked Southeast Asian currencies. …