The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America

By Kate Haulman | Go to book overview

NOTES
AASAmerican Antiquarian Society, Worcester, Mass.
APSAmerican Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, Pa.
CRBMCRare Book and Manuscript Collection, Columbia University Library, New York, N.Y.
DLDavid Library of the American Revolution, Washington Crossing, Pa.
HSPHistorical Society of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, Pa.
LCLibrary of Congress, Washington, D.C.
LCPLibrary Company of Philadelphia, Philadelphia, Pa.
MMAMetropolitan Museum of Art, New York, N.Y.
NYBGSNew York Biographical and Genealogical Society
NYHSNew-York Historical Society
PMAPhiladelphia Museum of Art
PMHBPennsylvaniaMagazine of History andBiography
SCHSSouth Carolina Historical Society, Charleston
WMLWinterthur Museum and Library, Winterthur, Del.
WMQWilliamand Mary Quarterly

INTRODUCTION

1 Bernard Mandeville, The Fable of the Bees and Other Writings, ed. E. J. Hundert (Indianapolis, Ind., 1997), 28, 33.

2 Erin Mackie, Market à la Mode: Fashion, Commodity, and Gender in “The Tatler” and “The Spectator” (Baltimore, 1997), 14–20. Mackie focuses on fashion as antithetical to an emerging bourgeois public sphere of rational debate.

3 Mandeville, Fable of the Bees, 138.

4 Samuel Adams to James Warren, October 20, 1778, in Paul H. Smith, Gerard W. Gawalt, Rosemary Fry Plakas, Eugene R. Sheridan, and Ronald M. Gephard, eds., Letters of Delegates to Congress, 1774–1789, CD ROM (Summerfield, Fla., 1998).

5 James Eli Adams writes that the dandy, the fop’s equally fashionable and effeminate nineteenth- century counterpart, came into focus during periods of masculine identity under stress or revision. See Adams, Dandies and Desert Saints: Styles of Victorian Masculinity (Ithaca, N.Y., 1995), 55.

6 Objects are an element of my study, but its focus is not a consideration of material culture. Rather than beginning with and proceeding from an analysis of artifacts, I approach fashion first as a discursive practice, which illuminates material culture as a site of power struggles and contested meanings. Studies of early America that

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