Fashion: The Man Who Turned Madonna into a Goth When Madonna Gives a Designer Her Seal of Approval, His Success Is Assured. Nicolas Ghesquiere, the New Man at Balenciaga, Cannot Fail:the Pop Star Is Already Quite a Fan. Ian Phillips Meets the Great Couturier's Latest Successor at His Paris Studio
Phillips, Ian, The Independent (London, England)
WHEN the fashion house Balenciaga was looking for a new designer early last year, there were reports that it was planning to bring in a big-shot designer. The names of Helmut Lang and Yohji Yamamoto were bandied about. The fashion flock started to get all flustered. Then, it was announced that an unknown 26-year-old called Nicolas Ghesquiere would actually be taking over. To which the general reaction was "Er, who?"
At the same time, Ghesquiere was also hired to design the women's collection for Trussardi, and just 12 months later both appointments look like an incredibly smart move. His latest collection for Balenciaga was the highlight of Paris Fashion Week, and shortly after his first collection in October, Madonna adopted him as one of her new fashion darlings.
At the Golden Globes in January, she chose not to wear any of her favoured designers, such as Dolce & Gabbana or Versace. Instead, she turned up in a long-sleeved, full-skirted black Balenciaga dress, which she described as "Goth". On a trip to Paris last month to promote her new album, she took time out to pop into Balenciaga for a fitting and walked away with a choice of 10 outfits for the Academy Awards. On the night, she chose to wear an outfit by the latest avant-garde designer on the block, Olivier Theyskens, but that's another story. When asked about his most famous client, Ghesquiere is suitably discreet. He will, never the less, reveal that she discovered his creations during a shoot for Spin magazine with Dutch photographer Inez van Lamsweerde (a big fan of Ghesquiere). "She immediately fell for my clothes," he says. "She feels they fit into the new direction she wants to take and have obvious links to religion - something which has always fascinated her." Indeed, Ghesquiere admits to being very attracted by the monastic aesthetic, as indeed was the old master Cristobal Balenciaga himself. In the collection for autumn/winter `98, it was apparent in the pared-down, sombre, black forms and clothes inspired by capes and cassocks. Right up until the last minute, Ghesquiere had even planned to tie thick ropes around the models' waists in the guise of belts. In one corner of his sunny Paris office stands a board covered in pictures of nuns. Next door, the American department store Barneys is placing an order. Ghesquiere himself is sitting at a marble desk, dressed in a long- sleeved black T-shirt with his long hair scrunched up at the back of his head with the aid of an elastic band. …