Perry -- Quoddy Village -- Eastport, 7.3 m. State 190.
Two-lane tar-surfaced roadbed.
State 190 runs close to the shore of Passamaquoddy Bay, which, in sunlight, is intensely blue; beyond the islands dotting the water rise the hills of New Brunswick. This route is particularly delightful in the early morning, when the thumping of motorboats and the tangy aroma of drying fish are reminders of the area's fishing activities.
State 190 branches SE. from US 1 at Perry (see Section 1), 0 m.
At 0.7 m. is the junction with a gravel road.
Left on this road is PLEASANT POINT, 2 m., a 100-acre reservation established about 1822 and occupied by 300 Passamaquoddy Indians. The State appoints an agent to supervise the business affairs of the reservation, but the Indians elect their own governor and may send a member of the tribe to represent them before the legislature. Houses on the reservation are of modern camp type, and there is a fully equipped elementary school.
These Indians had accepted Roman Catholicism before there was extensive white settlement in the State; though they are devout communicants, they retain some of their primitive ceremonies. After a conventional church wedding in the little brick church, for example, the dark-skinned, sleek-haired Passamaquoddies dance to the beating of drums and the chanting of old songs. Discarding ordinary dress, which differs little from that of the white people living around them, they don ancient costume and headdress, and paint their faces. They welcome visitors to these affairs and appreciate applause. While they do not make friends easily, once their shyness has worn off they belie their reputation for taciturnity and are excellent story-tellers. The Passamaquoddies do some farming and occasionally work on the road but their livelihood is derived chiefly from fishing.
From the time of the Revolution, the men have been active in military service; many joined the northern troops in the Civil War. In the INDIAN CEMETERY (R), at the top of the hill near the entrance to the reservation, is a monument to Moses Neptune, killed at the Argonne in 1918, and another to the memory of Charles Nola, who was posthumously awarded the Croix de Guerre for remarkable courage and tenacity during the World War in defending an advance post until he was killed. Most of the graves are marked by small wooden crosses with carved inscriptions.
A DAM, a part of the discontinued Passamaquoddy Project, has been built between Pleasant Point and Carlow Island.
At 4.2 m. State 190 crosses a bridge to Moose Island. A short distance south of the bridge is QUODDY VILLAGE, in which 250 New