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CHAPTER THIRTY-SEVEN

1
LEAVING Vienna, our first stop was Meran, a charm-
ing resort in the Trentino, wholly Austrian so far as
Stolz and I observed, but lately ceded to Italy by the
Treaty of Versailles in order to insure a "strategic
defense," a reason abhorrent to my mind. For
security against war, if there be any, must lie not in
indomitable fortresses but in the hearts of the people.
From Meran we went over the majestic Stelvio Pass,
where we saw and heard Austrian soldiers practicing
their machine guns on the glaciers of the Ortler.
Descending into Italy, we next crossed the beautiful
Bernina over to scenes, to me familiar, around
exquisite Pontresina, the heart of the Engadine.
There we went up Piz Languard, climbed by me
twenty-one years before, a superb viewpoint easy
of access and most repaying. Stolz walked to the
summit, and I halted at the end of the funiculaire,
for the experience of a quarter century had left me
stout and scant of breath as compared with the
Matterhornbesteiger of 1881! 1

Meran
to Piz
Languard

From the Engadine we drove down the Maloja,
beloved of old, to the Lake of Como. Thence, on our
way westward, we stopped to see the old battlefields
of Magenta and Novara. In Magenta the bullet
holes in the houses showed the course of the Austrian
troops driven from the bridge by the Italians and
French over the river Po and back through the city
streets. In an old church, in one of the basement

Magenta

____________________
1 See Vol. I, Chapter XI, pages 258-269.

-312-

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Publication Information: Book Title: The Days of a Man: Being Memories of a Naturalist, Teacher, and Minor Prophet of Democracy. Volume: 2. Contributors: David Starr Jordan - author. Publisher: World Book. Place of Publication: Yonkers-on-Hudson, NY. Publication Year: 1922. Page Number: 312.
    
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