and of every, sagra (which is the holiday of
one parish only), stalls are erected in the
squares for the cooking and sale of these
crullers, between which and the religious
sentiment proper to the whole year there
seems to be some occult relation.

In the winter, the whole city appears to
abandon herself to cooking for the public,
till she threatens to hopelessly disorder the
law of demand and supply. There are, to
begin with, the caffè and restaurants of every
class. Then there are the cook-shops, and
the poulterers', and the sausage-makers'.
Then, also, every fruit-stall is misty and
odorous with roast apples, boiled beans, cab-
bage, and potatoes. The chestnut-roasters
infest every corner, and men, women, and
children cry roast pumpkin at every turn,
till at last hunger seems an absurd and fool-
ish vice, and the ubiquitous beggars, no less
than the habitual abstemiousness of every
class of the population, become the most per-
plexing and maddening of anomalies.

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