In the early Muhammadan period textiles continued to be made in
the style and technique of the earlier Coptic and Sasanian weaves,
but gradually a true Muhammadan style was developed, which
spread over all the countries under Arab rule.

The conquest of Egypt by the Arabs in 641 wrought but little change
in the life of the native Christians, or Copts. The Copts were great
craftsmen, and as such were extensively employed by the Arabs in
building mosques and palaces and for work in the newly established
textile manufactories, called Dar at Tiraz. The term tiraz applies
to bands containing inscriptions either woven or embroidered, to
the garments so decorated, and to the factories where such garments
were made. The institution of tiraz factories, which existed in all
the provinces, was of great importance in the official life of the
Muhammadan rulers of the Umayyad and Abbasid dynasties. In
these shops, some of which were housed in palaces of the caliphs,
were made robes of honor with tiraz bands which were presented to
officials of high rank at least once a year and corresponded somewhat
to our orders. The name of the ruler was mentioned in the inscrip-
tions of the tiraz bands as a mark of his sovereignty.

The tiraz factories of Egypt were famous for their linens and silks,
and Arabic textiles were exported from Egypt to other provinces
such as Syria and Mesopotania. An embroidered inscription in red
silk on a linen fragment of the ninth century, found at Samarra,
indicates Tinnis, near Port Said, as the place of manufacture. Tinnis,
which had five thousand looms, was renowned for several kinds of
fabrics, such as kasab, a very fine linen used for turbans; badana, a
fabric used for the garments of the caliphs; and bukalimun, a fabric
with changing colors, used for saddlecloths and for covering royal
litters. Nasir-i-Khusrau, a Persian traveler of the eleventh century,

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