FOOD & WINE; Last of the Cheap; LUXURIES; PAN FRIED LAMB'S KIDNEY WITH GRAIN MUSTARD AND SAFFRON BASMATI RICE

Article excerpt

You either like kidneys or you don't. And yes, you've guessed it, I LOVE lambs' kidneys.

I like them pink inside with that texture and heavenly flavour.

I suppose it's just the thought of them that puts people off, but I'm sure if you give this recipe a go, you'll be pleasantly surprised.

As far as I'm concerned they're one of the last cheap luxuries available and I often enjoy indulging in them.

There's a wonderful taste combination in this dish between the saffron, basmati and mustard.

Mustard is a natural partner and the basmati rice has a lovely perfume which blends well with the saffron.

And as far as texture is concerned, the succulent kidneys marry well with the grainy texture of the rice and mustard.

Watch when making the rice that you don't overcook it. Use a heavy pan if you have one and stick rigidly to the directions on the packet.

Don't just throw the rice in a pot of water and hope for the best because the results will be disastrous!

If everything goes to plan, you should end up with a pot of fluffy, steamed rice and no water at all.

The dish is best served right away to appreciate the aromas and subtle taste combinations.

INGREDIENTS: 175g (6oz) basmati rice

6 lambs kidneys

1 teaspoon sunflower oil

25g (1oz) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons cognac

300ml (10floz) Beef or Chicken stock

120ml (4floz) double cream

Pinch of saffron strands

1 1/2 teaspoons grain mustard

1 teaspoon chives, chopped

salt

Fresh ground white pepper

METHOD: First, following the directions on the packet, cook the rice adding the saffron to the cooking water. …