Magazine article Sunset

For Her Recipes, You May Need an Atlas

Magazine article Sunset

For Her Recipes, You May Need an Atlas

Article excerpt

CROSS-CULTURAL cooking comes easily to Jeanette Holley; she adds adventure to faimiliar foods, mixes flavors from different cuisines, and interprets Western foods with an Asian slant.

Holley's background contributes many influences. She was the child of a Japanese mother and African-American father, and she grew up in Japan and Korea. From Asia, she moves to Washington State University to study food chemistry and nutrition. Going beyond her early career as a dietitian, she trained at several innovative restaurants in the Los Angeles area and in France. Now her own culinary creativity comes into fascinating play at O'toto, a restaurant in Los Angeles.

If you don't find the ethnic ingredients for these recipes in the supermarket, you'll need to shop at an Asian grocery store. Or use the suggested substitutes.

Shrimps with Rice

Paper Crepes

If you can't find the rice papers, serve the shrimp with the rest of the ingredients as a salad; dress with the dipping sauce.

3/4 pound medium-size (43 to 53 per lb.) shrimp, shelled and deveined

2 teaspoons lime juice

6 cups (about 4 oz.) bite-size pieces mixed salad greens, such as mesclun, rinsed and crisped

Sprigs of fresh mint, basil (anise, Indian, Opal, or Thai), cilantro (coriander), or shiso; use at least 3 different kinds

1/4 cup long, fine shreds carrot

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped roasted peanuts

2 tablespoons drained canned capers

16 rounds (6 to 8 in. wide) edible rice paper

Dipping sauce (recipe follows)

Bring about 2 quarts of water to a boil in a 4- to 5- quart pan. Stir in shrimp, cover pan tightly, and remove from heat. Let stand until shrimp are opaque in thickest part (cut to test), 3 to 4 minutes. Drain well and mix with lime juice.

On each of 4 dinner plates, mound an equal portion of salad greens. Arrange herbs around salad. Spoon 1/4 of the shrimp onto each salad mound. Sprinkle with carrots, peanuts, and capers.

Just before serving, lightly brush both sides of rice papers with water. Place in a single layer on a wide platter; let stand briefly until soft. (If wet papers touch, they may stick and be difficult to separate without tearing). Offer damp rice papers and dipping sauce with shrimp and greens.

To eat, mount about 1/4 shrimp and greens from each plate onto a damp rice paper. Top with herb sprigs; roll to enclose filling. To eat, dip in sauce. Makes 4 first-course servings.

Per serving without rice paper: 108 cal.; 16 g proten; 3.5 g fat (0.6 g sat.); 3.2 g carbo.; 218 mg sodium; 105 mg chol.

Dipping sauce. Mix 6 tablespoons water or dashi (seaweed stock), 3 tablespoons fish sauce (nuoc mam or nam pla) or soy sauce, 2 tablespoons lime juice, 2 tablespoons sugar, and 1 teaspoon Asian hot chili paste or sauce or 3/4 teaspoon crushed dry hot red chilies. Makes 2/3 cup.

Per tablespoon: 22 cal.; 0.7 g protein; 0.5 g flat (0.1 g sat.); 3.6 g carbo.; 0.5 mg sodium; 0 mg chol.

Buckwheat Noodles

with Scallops and

Sesame Vinaigrette

Hijiki, available in Japanese markets, is dried seaweed that looks like fine strands of black pasta. If it's unavailable, omit and make only half of the soy, mirin, and sake mixture; use mixture to marinate scallops.

The other Asian ingredients--mirin, sake, sesame oil, buckwheat noodles, daikon sprouts, rice vinegar, miso, and chili oil--have supermarket alternatives. …

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