Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

My New Resolution Is Always to Drink 20 [Pounds Sterling] Wine. How Am I Going to Pay for It?

Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

My New Resolution Is Always to Drink 20 [Pounds Sterling] Wine. How Am I Going to Pay for It?

Article excerpt

Heaven knows where Angus got the bottle of Chateau Senejac, Cru Bourgeois, Haut Medoc 1992 that he presented my boyfriend with for Christmas, but I do wish he hadn't given it to him. It ended up costing me a fortune. Two days after unwrapping it we visited my parents. Mum had cooked a rib of beef, an unauthorised purchase by dad from the butcher in Bedale where he goes to buy game pies. The beef was spectacular; earthy and tender and full of flavour. I realised that Angus's wine would be delicious with it. As indeed it was, the savoury restraint of the claret and its easeful masculine perfume causing us all to relapse into respectful silence. It was then that I realised I spend far too much money on cheap wine.

The next week, walking home from work on a particularly fretful, damp evening, I called into my local wine merchant. Courtesy of another recent resolution (never to eat ready-made meals), I had a small joint of gammon in my bag and intended to buy a bottle of Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2000 Henri de Villamont (8.95 [pounds sterling]), a delicious, teasingly scented and affordable Burgundy.

Unfortunately, I then remembered the promise to myself to be more expensive. What an opportunity to try a halfway decent Burgundy! The sort of thing I never drink because I cannot afford it. I asked for advice. "I never bother with Burgundy under 20 [pounds sterling]," said the salesman. "It's just not worth it." So he recommended one at exactly 20 [pounds sterling], Domaine Lechenaut Nuits St George 1999. …

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