Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

Wine: Women Find Especially Alluring the Full Aroma of Apricots and Armpits

Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

Wine: Women Find Especially Alluring the Full Aroma of Apricots and Armpits

Article excerpt

Another trip to the supermarket: this time to Sainsbury's, the favourite of the new Labour elites, who have scattered titles over the Sainsbury family, married eagerly into it and even appointed its head as a government minister. A slovenly picture of Lord Sainsbury is now on display at the National Portrait Gallery, and it will not be long before the House of Sainsbury is proposed as a modernising replacement to the House of Windsor.

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Meanwhile, the supermarket has issued its third successive profits warning, and the person responsible is steeling himself for the enormous bonus that will be inflicted on him as he begs to retire. British shoppers, it seems, are deserting their once favourite supermarket. The reason is not that they have come round to the view that supermarkets are a social and ecological catastrophe, but that they have taken up with the competition. This is a shame because--new Labour image aside--Sainsbury's is really rather inoffensive, not given to vast out-of-town developments, and fairly sober in its use of colours and signs; occasionally harmonising with its urban surroundings and not averse to selling local food from eco-friendly sources.

The wine shelves are reassuring, too, with cheap and friendly products from around the globe, and fine wines that are expertly chosen. Moreover, the special offers are wide-ranging and seriously attractive, with prices as low as [pounds sterling]2. …

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