Magazine article Sunset

Hawaii's Wearable Postcards

Magazine article Sunset

Hawaii's Wearable Postcards

Article excerpt

The aloha shirt is a summer classic, a collector's item still going strong

Harry Truman sported one on the cover of Life magazine. Elvis swiveled his hips in one in his hit movie Blue Hawaii. Two guys called Duke (surfer and Olympic champion swimmer Kahanamoku, and Olympian actor John Wayne) wore them regularly. And Tom Selleck sported them as he roared around Oahu in his red Ferrari in the "Magnum, P.I." television series. Hawaiian businessmen and tourists still wear them. The aloha shirt, a 1940s fashion statement that grew to a '50s frenzy, is a fad that has refused to fade.

"By fashion industry standards, the aloha shirt should have died out years ago," insists Hawaii historian Tommy Holmes. "But today there is probably no better-known garment in the world that captures the spirit of a place." Indeed, the passage of the aloha shirt from Hawaiian kitsch to Western classic hasn't been lost on collectors; a vintage shirt in mint condition that may have sold for as little as $5 in 1938 now commands anywhere from $500 to $2,500.

While the market for vintage shirts is admittedly small, the market for new aloha shirts is now hitting Main Street. Over the past few years, a growing number of Mainland department stores have begun carrying these boldly patterned, brightly colored shirts; one manufacturer admits that last year his company sold more shirts in Southern California alone than in the entire state of Hawaii.


Aloha shirts have their origins in Hawaii's early ethnic stew. According to Holmes, back in the 1920s, Punahou School students had local tailors make simple, loose-fitting shirts, inspired by Filipino bayau shirts, from colorfully patterned Japanese kimono fabrics. The fad caught on with tourists, who called them Hawaiian shirts and bought them as souvenirs, and in 1935 Musa-Shiya, a tailor on Honolulu's N. King Street, advertised "Aloha Shirts ... 95 cents and up." A year later, competitor Ellery Chun copyrighted the name.

World War II helped boost the popularity of the shirts, especially as they became fashion statements featured in movies like From Here to Eternity, in which stars Montgomery Clift and Frank Sinatra partied in them. In 1948, Aloha Week organizers in Hawaii encouraged businessmen to wear the shirts, but it wasn't until 1965 that the governor officially approved Hawaiian attire for state workers on aloha Fridays. In the '70s, surfers began buying the shirts from thrift shops and nicknamed them silkies because of their slinky feel. …

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