Magazine article Artforum International

"Objects of Their Affection." (Interact Center, New York, New York)

Magazine article Artforum International

"Objects of Their Affection." (Interact Center, New York, New York)

Article excerpt

INTERART CENTER

"Fashion may be glamorous," its detractors will admit before delivering what they consider to be the coup de grace, "but it's vacuous." The frumpy and the dumpy might criticize fashion but it's not just a passive process of consuming the latest and greatest. As its etymology would indicate, fashion is a question of actively producing something; like art, it's about fabricating appearances. "In conceiving this show of objects from the collections of eight American designers, wanted to go beyond the fact of collecting to see if there was a connection between what these eight designers collect and what they create," explains the organizer of the show, Joanne Mattera, in the press material that accompanied "Objects of Their Affection." Generally speaking, the dots between designers' clothes and collections do connect: Betsey Johnson's "collection" filled a corner of the exhibition space with hat boxes, silver sandals, silk flowers, votive candles, an old corset, a Madonna autograph, cute snapshots of her daughter Lulu, studded belts, ballet slippers, and all sorts of other baubles. That this manic collection reflected the brash mayhem of her clothing designs is not surprising, since it was an avowedly inspirational "collage wall" that normally resides in her studio. Michael Kors' collection consisted of fashion photographs by the likes of Herb Ritts, Irving Penn, and Steven Meisel. Comparing them to the elegant and intellectual minimalism of his clothing designs, Kors says, "With one exception, my photographs are black and white. …

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