Magazine article Sunset

Santa Cruz Mountains: Wild Parks, Winning Wines, and Shimmering Views Converge in the Hills South of San Francisco

Magazine article Sunset

Santa Cruz Mountains: Wild Parks, Winning Wines, and Shimmering Views Converge in the Hills South of San Francisco

Article excerpt

THE TWO OF US are sitting at what feels very near the top of the world, with a picnic before us and the vast expanse of Silicon Valley far, far below. Munching on salads and sandwiches, we see beyond the chaparral-covered hillside to a valley of trees and office towers punctuated by the flat, hazy, blue stretch of San Francisco Bay and the red-roofed buildings of Stanford University.

The summer sun gives the hills an ethereal golden sheen. We shade our wineglasses under an umbrella. We wouldn't want to mar this moment by a single degree, since we've come to this mountain spot to pay homage to the world's best wine. Yes, you read right: world's best. As in, unsurpassed. Number one. Top dog.

Ridge Vineyards, here on a slope called Monte Bello in the Santa Cruz Mountains, has been judged by the world's top tasters to make the best Cabernet on the globe; ranked above some famous Bordeaux at the ground-breaking 1976 Paris blind tasting, the same Cabernet placed first in a rematch last year.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

The best wine in the world--not from France? Nor Napa? You'd never guess the source to be the Santa Cruz Mountains--unless you already know this place harbors not only great wineries but also good food and plenty of room to roam.

Of course, today we can't afford the current vintage of that lauded Cabernet (starting at $160 a bottle), but we more than make do with some excellent Chardonnay.

Top-of-the-world wine, with atop-of-the-world view: We pronounce it a perfect pairing.

Challenging wines, challenging roads

How, we wonder, have we gotten so lucky to have this place all to ourselves?

While a number of wine aficionados know and love the region, few wine lovers come for a visit. Granted, the landscape is not easy for visitors: Wineries are tucked into mountain folds and behind evergreens down dirt roads. Many are small and open to visitors intermittently. And there is no quick way to get anywhere from the tops of these hills.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

So we drive, and drive, and drive some more in this beautifully rugged terrain, happily hurling ourselves down corkscrew roads. We spend our nights near the ocean in Santa Cruz. In the mornings, when surfers head to the shore and college students pack the coffee shops, we point our car east and head back into the hills for more.

More than 70 wineries operate in the Santa Cruz Mountains region. It's a section of land that follows California's Coast Range from Half Moon Bay and Woodside in the north (about 30 miles south of San Francisco) to Watsonville on the coast and Gilroy inland (30 miles south of San Jose). Towns along the main through street, State 9 (which is anything but straight), offer organic groceries and cafes with hippie roots, funky mountain art co-ops, and the feeling that you're much farther than two dozen miles from urban life.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Hiking with peacocks

The hills also host a huge network of parks, where palm trees neighbor redwoods and boulders have been displaced by earthquakes. Mountain lions are sometimes seen here. Just down the hill from Ridge is the Picchetti Ranch Open Space Preserve, where we stretch our legs amid the live oak- and madrone-filled canyons. But before we get far, we're stopped by a male peacock, in full iridescent display, blocking our path. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.