Magazine article Sunset

The Secret to a Great Summer Pie

Magazine article Sunset

The Secret to a Great Summer Pie

Article excerpt

Often, after eating a piece of a pie I've just served, my most recent satisfied customer will ask, "Would you mind sharing the recipe? Or is it a secret?"

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As I always explain with regret, I cannot give the recipe for my pie, because the secret of a great pie is never in the recipe. It's in how you handle the dough. The only way I know to pass on my technique effectively is to stand at the elbow of whoever seeks to know, and demonstrate.

Some things you have to be there to observe: the particular flick of the wrist on the particular flick of the wrist on the pastry blender, the confident, forceful motion of rolling pin on dough (from the center out). The all-important patching process that utilizes the one tool I am never without: the heel of my hand, whose texture and temperature seem built for fixing crust.

Of course, great crust demands great filling. Back when I lived on the East Coast, I used to say there was nothing better than a wild blueberry pie--with a little lemon peel grated in. …

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