Magazine article Sunset

The Sunset Side Table

Magazine article Sunset

The Sunset Side Table

Article excerpt

Intermediate woodworkers can build this companion to the chair in a day

The angular lines and triangular cutouts in this handsome little table should look familiar: they're based on the design of the Sunset chair shown in our July 1997 issue. we asked the chair's designer, Los Angeles architect Stephen Kanner of Kanner Architects, to create an easy-to-build side table that would complement the chair but also stand on its own merits.

Unlike the more complex Sunset chair, this side table is made from just four basic shapes. It should take less than a day to complete, and materials should cost about $40. (You can still order plans for the chair. Send a check or money order for $3.50, payable to Sunset Publishing, to Sunset Chair, 80 Willow Rd., Menlo Park, CA 94025. Enclose a self-addressed, stamped business-size envelope.)

WHAT YOU NEED

We built the table of kiln-dried clear redwood, but you can use any clear wood such as cedar, mahogany, fir, or pine. Paint it or seal it with a penetrating sealer designed for decks; for a glossier look, use a spar varnish-type product.

* An 8-foot 1-by-3

* A 10-foot 1-by-3

* A 6-foot 1-by-4

* A 4-foot 1-by-6

* A 1- by 4-foot piece of 1/4-inch plywood (for cutting guide)

* Wire brads (for cutting guide)

* 52 1 1/8-inch #8 wood or deck screws

* Wood glue

* Oil-base enamel paint, clear exterior sealer, or spar varnish-type product

TOOLS

* Tape measure

* Pencil

* Circular saw (optional)

* Saber saw or handsaw

* Hammer and nails (for cutting guide)

* Sander (with medium and fine paper)

* Electric drill

* Countersink bit for wood screws

* Framing square

* Yardstick (for drawing straight lines)

* Combination square (for marking screw holes and distances from edges)

* Paintbrush

ASSEMBLING THE BASE

1. Following plans on page 116, cut pieces. Mark and drill countersunk holes for the screws in the legs and side braces. (Note that the legs will be attached to the outside of the end braces, with tapered sides facing each other.)

2. Place the side and end braces with top edges down on a work surface. At each joint, butt the end brace square against the inside face of the side brace, and use two screws to connect the pieces. (For added strength, glue joints.)

3. Align legs so their wide ends are flush with side braces (see photo on page 114); secure with two screws through each leg into the side brace. For added strength, add a third screw into the wide end of each leg from the inside of the end brace. …

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