Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

Sourdough Start-Ups

Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

Sourdough Start-Ups

Article excerpt

"Would you like to see my starter?" Adam Newey asks, already leaping out of his chair. He lifts the lid off a large plastic tub, revealing an off-white gloopy mass that emits a tangy, beer-like smell. Newey began growing his sourdough culture in 1997 when he mixed water with flour and left the mixture to react with wild, airborne yeast spores. "It is its own little ecosystem. As long as you keep feeding it and keep the conditions right for it, it will just keep breeding."

Some bakers in San Francisco--the "pinnacle" of sourdough, according to bread aficionados--claim they are using starters over 150 years old. Alaskan miners are said to have slept with their starters to keep them active in the arctic conditions. There are few limits to the passion that sourdough can excite.

Newey's starter is central to his new business, the Hill Bakery, which he founded in October last year. I meet him at its headquarters, his basement flat in south London. One wall of his open-plan kitchen and living room is stacked high with huge sacks of bread flour and piles of proving baskets. The remaining walls are covered in bookshelves. Newey, who is 49, has worked as a journalist for over 20 years; he was the New Statesman's poetry editor from 1999 to 2006. He often used to bring his bread in to work. "Eventually people said, 'This bread is really good. You should be doing this, forget the journalism'--which I think is a bit of a backhanded compliment," he remembers. He took their advice, however.

"I felt the digital revolution was probably one that I didn't want to get that involved with," he says. Instead, he's chosen a different rhythm. You can't rush baking: "You learn to look at the dough and you've just got to wait until it tells you it is ready." He hand-prints all of his labels, and once a month he selects a poem to include with each loaf. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.