Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

In the Sweet Saltaire

Magazine article New Statesman (1996)

In the Sweet Saltaire

Article excerpt

The most illicit alcoholic drink to be enjoyed in West Yorkshire is taken in Don't Tell Titus, a bar named in honour of the industrial philanthropist Titus Salt, who established the model village of Saltaire in 1851. That name is a playful nod to the beginnings of this Bradford suburb, which was constructed as a Victorian utopia for Salt's workers along puritanical lines. Abstinence here was key.

Saltaire forms the centrepiece of Jacqueline Yallop's new book, Dreamstreets: a Journey Through Britain's Village Utopias, which studies a handful of the many model settlements built by wealthy figures in close proximity to mines, factories and mills including Nenthead and Port Sunlight--mostly during the 19th century.

"Saltaire conjures up clearly the model of the mid-century mill town," Yallop tells me from Aberystwyth, where she teaches creative writing. "It's certainly the most 'Victorian' of the model villages in its form and conception.

"As I mention in the book, it strikes you as a kind of stalwart Victorian gent, very well turned out and impeccably mannered. Salt himself talked very little about his vision, however, so it's difficult to know how far it realises his intentions--or, indeed, what his intentions were."

The "Punjabi meze" and "home-made Scotch egg, Titus style"--breaded and bearded, perhaps?--on the bar menu suggest that times have changed. With its vintage clothing fairs, concrete skate park and David Hockney collection, a place once devoted almost entirely to one product --wool--now functions as a destination for art, food and commerce. In 2001, it was given World Heritage status.

Saltaire remains largely residential. The well-kept terraced streets are a testament to foresight and durability. The town provided bathhouses, a hospital, a library, a science lab and a gymnasium, free of charge. …

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