Magazine article Sunset

The Right Glass

Magazine article Sunset

The Right Glass

Article excerpt

* When Tra Vigne, one of the Napa Valley's most popular restaurants, opened 12 years ago, it served all of its wines in small, chunky tumblers. For a brief instant, there was something charming about that--like being in a Sicilian trattoria. Within about a month, however, the tumblers were history and in their place were big, long-stemmed wine goblets. The restaurant had been flooded with complaints from winemakers and consumers alike, none of whom seemed to think drinking a $30 Merlot out of a 99cent tumbler was romantic in the least.

Which brings up an interesting question: Just how much does the glass matter? Is all the fuss about correct wine glasses just a question of aesthetics?

The answer isn't easy. On one hand, how a glass looks and feels in your hand and against your lips does count. On the other hand, does an $80 glass necessarily make a wine taste better than a well-designed $8 glass does? Moreover, is it important to adjust the shape of the glass for the variety of wine--to have different glasses for Merlot and Chardonnay?

After years of buying dozens of kinds of glasses, here's my advice.

* Don't buy glasses you can't afford to break. What's the point of buying $25 burgundy glasses if they sit in the cabinet because you're afraid to use them?

* Buy simple, clear glasses that are not cut, faceted, etched, or colored. You want to be able to see the wine; part of its beauty is how it looks in the glass. Crystal glasses are more elegant than regular glasses, but they're not necessary.

* Choose glasses with generous bowls. One way of maximizing a wine's flavor is by swirling it in the glass to aerate it. If the glass is too small to accommodate swirling, the wine in it can taste blank and lifeless.

* Don't bother to buy smaller glasses for white wines, larger ones for reds. Since both benefit from aerating, it's perfectly fine to serve both white and red in the same generous-size glasses.

* Always opt for a thin rim. Because liquids flow more easily and evenly over a thin rim than a thick, rolled one, drinking wine from a glass with a thin rim is more pleasurable.

* Be sure the rim of the glass tapers slightly inward. A tapered rim focuses the wine's aroma so you can smell and taste the wine better.

* Avoid small-footed glasses. …

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