Magazine article Sunset

Quick or Complex, Frozen Desserts Made with Ice Cream Cylinders

Magazine article Sunset

Quick or Complex, Frozen Desserts Made with Ice Cream Cylinders

Article excerpt

Quick or complex, frozen desserts made with ice cream cylinders

Making homemade ice cream is easier and neater these days; you use cylinder ice cream freezers instead of old-fashioned makers that require rock salt and ice. These recipes are scaled to the cylinders' smaller capacities.

With could fruit and yogurt, milk, or cream, you can make a frozen dessert in minutes. Just whirl the chilled ingredients together in a blender, then turn into a frozen ice cream cylinder.

For a richer dessert, make the vanilla or chocolate-orange gelato. Their smooth textures come from their cooked custard base. Make sure it is thoroughly chilled before freezing; allow at least 2 hours.

Each recipe makes 1 pint of frozen dessert. Double recipes for 1-1/2-quart cylinders; halve for 1/2-pint freezers.

How do cylinders work?

Replacing the ice and salt traditional makers use, these streamlined machines consist of aluminum cylinders with non-toxic refrigerant sandwiched between double walls.

You begin by placing the cylinder in a freezer set at [deg.]0 or below until frozen solid, about 8 hours, then set it in an outer case, fit it with a mixing blade, and fill with the dessert mixture for the 20- to 30-minute freezing process.

The key to success is a thoroughly frozen cylinder. If it isn't cold enough, the ice cream takes longer to freeze, and results may be slushy instead of firm.

Manufacturers suggest you turn your freezer to the coldest setting and place the clean, dry cylinder upright and uncovered in the chilliest spot. In frost-free freezers, this is generally next to the cold-air vent; in manual defrost freezers, the floor of the freezer is best. If you make ice cream often, keep the cylinder in the freezer between batches so it will always be ready.

Sizes (they're small) and costs

These freezers make up to 1 quart of frozen dessert; they're great for 1 or 2 servings or for small families.

Each cylinder is larger than the amount of dessert it's designed to make, allowing extra room for the mixture to move over the paddles and to expand slightly in volume. Some manufacturers label according to the cylinder's total volume, others according to the amount of the finished dessert. If you use more than the recommended amount, the dessert may overflow, be softer, or take longer to freeze.

Cylinder sizes range from 1/2 pint (makes 3/4 cup and costs about $8) to 1-1/2 quarts (makes 1 quart and ranges between $30 and $50). Some brands freature extra cylinders; some turn by electricity rather than by hand.

Ince cream alchemy--turning liquids

into frozen desserts

To freeze the dessert mixtures, set the frozen cylinder into the outer case, fit with mixing blade, and pour in the cold mixture. At once, secure lid and attach handle; slowly turn clockwise three or four times. (If you find it difficult to turn the handle, gently turn it counterclockwise to free the blade; do nto force. Or scrape sides with a rubber spatula.)

Freeze according to the manufacturer's directions, turning nonelectric models periodically, until mixture reaches desired consistency, 15 to 30 minutes for softly frozen texture. Remove lid and blade; serve or replace lid and let stand 20 to 30 minutes more in cold cylinder for firmer texture.

Because you turn the ice cream mixture only a few times, the finished product expands less and is denser than ice cream made by other methods.

Transfer any leftover ice cream to another container and store in freezer. …

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