Magazine article Sunset

Seattle Gumbo; Pacific Shellfish and Louisiana Heritage ... but No Okra

Magazine article Sunset

Seattle Gumbo; Pacific Shellfish and Louisiana Heritage ... but No Okra

Article excerpt

The Louisiana heritage of Seattle resident Reggie Kendall emerges in this Northwest gumbo made with Pacific shellfish. The dish is a lighter, simpler version of his Southern grandmother's recipe, without the traditional okra. Its rich color comes from a browned flour roux; long cooking takes away the flour's thickening ability and leaves a subtle, toasty flavor.

Mr. Kendall accompanies his gumbo with a green salad and hot cornbread. Dessert is lemon tart or chocolate mousse.

Because ingredients are showy, part of the party is watching the gumbo come together. Make the broth ahead of time to ease preparation.

Verina's Northwest Gumbo

1 cup salad oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

About 1 pound onions, minced

About 1 pound green bell peppers, stemmed, seeded, and minced

3 quarts fish broth (directions follow)

2 pounds extra-large (26 to 30 per lb.) shrimp

2 large (about 3 lb. each) cooked Dungeness crabs, cleaned and cracked

1/2 pound shelled cooked Dungeness crab

1 to 1 1/2 pounds kielbasa Polish sausage), cut into 1 -inch chunks

2 jars (10 oz. each) fresh shucked small Olympic or Pacific oysters

Liquid hot pepper seasoning

About 1/4 cup chopped parsley

12 to 14 cups hot cooked long-grain white rice

Salt

Pour oil into a heavy 10- to 12-inch frying pan on medium-high heat; when oil is hot (about 325[deg]), add flour all at once. Stir often until roux is a rich, deep caramel color, 7 to 8 minutes. Off the heat, dump in the onions and bell peppers all at once. …

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