Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Baroffer

Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Baroffer

Article excerpt

As I write, the arctic winds have died down but a heavy, soaking drizzle has replaced the cold. So there could be no better time to have a mini-bar selection of wines to welcome the spring, all supplied by our friends at Lay & Wheeler. Just buying these wines will oblige the skies to clear and the temperature to rise. And if it doesn't, at least you'll have something consoling to drink. All are heavily discounted.

The Bourgogne Blanc Les Sétilles 2004 1from Olivier Leflaive, one of the most celebrated of all Burgundy négoçiants, may be a generic Burgundy, but the grapes all come from the villages of PulignyMontrachet and Meursault, which in wine terms is a bit like buying Sainsbury's own brand caviar. Four-fifths was barrel-fermented, which means that it has a gentle taste of oak, but nothing to dull the fresh, zingy, perfumed fruit. Reduced by 20 per cent to a stunning £7.16. If you like to drink white Burgundy in quantity but can't afford Le Montrachet, I could hardly recommend this more.

Rosé wines continue to grow in popularity, mainly because they are now made from red grapes with real oomph. In the old days rosés tasted faintly of -- well, they didn't taste of anything much, faintly or otherwise. …

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