Magazine article The New Yorker

Sfoglia; Tables for Two

Magazine article The New Yorker

Sfoglia; Tables for Two

Article excerpt

1402 Lexington Ave., at 92nd St. (212-831-1402)--The northwest corner of Ninety-second Street and Lexington Avenue is one of those restaurant Bermuda Triangles. Cafe Lex, Lex 92, and La Collina have perished there, unfortunate disappearances in what is already a gustatory wasteland. Into both breaches steps Sfoglia, whose chef-owners, Ron Suhanosky and his wife, Colleen Marnell-Suhanosky, have offered some solutions to the dead-corner/lame-neighborhood problem. The first was to move the entrance, against their architects' advice, from avenue to street--a feng-shui-ish maneuver that helped transform the dining area from disconcerting storefront to hospitable country kitchen. The other was to make their restaurant really good. Sfoglia got its start on Nantucket, another culinary backwater, in 2000. The couple (Ron is the chef, and Colleen is the pastry chef, whose torta del giorno must--and should--be ordered at the beginning of your meal) spent years plotting this expansion to the Big Island. They had the bold idea not only of making a living at it but of kicking off a restaurant renaissance, or naissance, in the Upper East Side's upper reaches, where they'd decided to live, and where many of their Nantucket regulars live as well. …

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