Magazine article The Spectator

Food: 'Ave a Banana

Magazine article The Spectator

Food: 'Ave a Banana

Article excerpt

BY the time this is out, the fate of the nation will, I suppose, have been decided, and thank God all that tommy-rot that goes on in the media will cease. Meanwhile, we have had the very important feast day of St Zita, patron saint of the kitchen and domestics, a must for all households which aspire to good food. She was a dear little saint, a servant herself in a rich household in the Tuscan city of Lucca, where she tended to give the good food provided for her to the beggars and impoverished of the town. Her master found this deeply irritating, particularly once, during a famine, when she gave away much of the family supply of beans, though when he inspected the bean cupboard they had miraculously been replaced; wasn't that nice?

I have been filming in the splendid Brazilian embassy all week. They have the most marvellous kitchen covered in old Dutch tiles where they very kindly allowed us to work. At the end of the shoot they gave a cocktail party, using the things we had prepared, but they produced the most wonderful supper dish for the late stayers. …

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