Magazine article The Spectator

Attention Seekers

Magazine article The Spectator

Attention Seekers

Article excerpt

Food for thought

I think I am losing the battle against eating fruit and vegetables out of season. By 'season' I mean, of course, the time for gathering produce grown outdoors in this country - asparagus in May, broad beans and strawberries in June. But everything now seems to be available, from some corner of the world, practically all the year round. In the past week, runner beans from Kenya and blackberries from Guatemala have been on sale in Wiltshire. And I have to admit that my wife bought some Spanish asparagus at Easter.

July is the month for starting to cut cucumbers from a garden frame or cloche. It used to be said that tailors would take their holidays during the cucumber season, because they could expect little business in high summer. As the Pall Mall Gazette commented in the mid-19th century, `When cucumbers are in, the gentry are out of town. …

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