Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Bar Offer

Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Bar Offer

Article excerpt

The Loire produces wonderful wines for summer. Perhaps it's holidays in July and August, driving from château to château, past the slow reaches of the river and green meadows almost yellow from the sun. Baguettes and pâté under the willow trees. . . .

Actually that may be a figment of my unreliable memory. But the wines really are crisp, refreshing and lively, as well as having plenty of body. Lay in supplies so that your al fresco meals will be even more delightful.

And less expensive too. The Loire had the same crummy summer we did last year, but, like us, they did get sun in spring and autumn.

Most -- though not all -- wines were better than rescued, though prices went up. But since Simon Taylor of the terrific independent merchant Stone, Vine & Sun has knocked 15 per cent off every bottle, you need not suffer.

My choice was very difficult, but all four wines come from different grapes, so there is variety here as well as quality.

Chenin Blanc is one of the archetypal Loire grapes. It's got fullness and fatness and fruitiness, yet this 2006 Domaine de l'Aumonier, Cuvée Henri, from Touraine (1) is bone dry. It will continue to improve in bottle, which is something you can't say about all white wines. Down to £6. …

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