Magazine article Sunset

Charlie's Angels

Magazine article Sunset

Charlie's Angels

Article excerpt

YOUNG WOMEN POWER AN OLDWORLD RESTAURANT. Enter the quiet, dark, clubby atmosphere of Charles Nob Hill in San Francisco and you might not guess that the power in the kitchen lies in the hands of executive chef Melissa Perello. Just 26 years old, she produces intensely flavored dishes with great sophistication. Together with sommelier Jane Rate and pastry chef Shelly Kaldunski-collectively nicknamed Charlie's Angels-they produce dinners that belie their youth. "We have an energetic staff that fills the restaurant with youthful energy. It's conveyed through the whole dining experience-you really feel it," says Perello. 1250 Jones St.; (415) 771-5400.

RECIPE: Fried Green Tomatoes (1) Rinse 2 green (unripe) tomatoes (8 oz. each); cut crosswise into 1/2-- inch-thick slices, discarding tops and bottoms. Lightly sprinkle both sides of slices with salt and pepper. Lay in a single layer on paper towels. Let stand 5 to 10 minutes. (2) Meanwhile, cut 2 ripe red tomatoes (8 oz. …

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