Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Bar Offer

Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Mini-Bar Offer

Article excerpt

The Spectator wine club laughs in the face of recession. Not only do we intend go on drinking through the dark times, we insist on continuing to drink well. Thanks this week to Wheeler Cellars, offshoot of the celebrated merchants Lay & Wheeler, we can offer four superb wines at exceedingly low prices. Indeed, if you bought a case of each wine you would save comfortably over £100. The first white is from Stephen Henschke, by a wide margin Australia's leading independent winemaker. Stephen's most famous wine, a Shiraz called Hill Of Grace, sells for between £150 and £250 a bottle. His Tilly's Vineyard 2005 (1), from Barossa, costs quite a bit less and stunning value at £8.99 a bottle, a £2 reduction. It's a lovely, fresh, vibrant wine, mostly Semillon but with a touch of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to add depth and complexity. A fine wine at a glugging price.

Regular readers know my impatience with Chablis, and the way the appellation is allowed to appear on the label of many boring, mediocre wines. The other day I tried one from the posh rack in a well-known supermarket chain. Try as I might, I could discern no flavour at all, quite unlike the one we are offering. It's a 2006 from the Domaine de Vauroux (2), and it has real, rich Burgundy savour to go with the familiar flinty dryness. …

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