Magazine article Out

Tutti Frutti

Magazine article Out

Tutti Frutti

Article excerpt

RESTORING THE FRUIT-INFUSED COCKTAIL TO ITS RIGHTFUL PLACE

Poor blighted fruit. First, it had to surfer through the indignations of the bastardized cosmopolitan and the ubiquity of vodka crans. Then, when the cocktail revolution swept The UNited States, strawberries, kiwis, and the like were muddled willy-nilly with the kind of abandon previously reserved for lime and mint. Finally, change is afoot. Fruit, after all, holds a vaunted position in the a ? nais of classic drink ini;. Before Prohibition, minimally processeli fruit syrups were fixtures of a variety of drinks, including punches, daisies, and juleps. Kvcn when fruit was not an ingrethent, it was often a garnish, as with t he Sherry ( lobbler, a simple concoction of sherry, sugar, and a hillock of shaved ice, finished with berries and citrus.

Contemporary bartenders are resurrecting these nearly forgotten drinks, proving that fruit is essential to many a standout Beverage. Produce-mad San l 'ranci seo might be the epicenter of the movement. …

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