Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Wine Club

Magazine article The Spectator

Spectator Wine Club

Article excerpt

It's finally summer, and the election will be over this time next week, so we should celebrate with something delicious and refreshing. This offer comes from Yapp Bros, the Wiltshire merchants who specialise in the Loire and I have nagged them into knocking 10 per cent off their list prices.

Consequently these are not only tremendous wines, in very different ways, but good value as well. And because it's summer - almost - I have broken with tradition and chosen four whites and only two reds.

The first white is a Muscadet which, as I have often said, can be ghastly. Especially the stuff you often find flogged in French supermarkets. Don't buy it unless the family silver needs a clean. Instead pay a little bit more for a good one, such as this from Dme de la Mortaine, 2009 (1). It is sur lie , which means that it has fermented on its own bits and bobs, adding greatly to the flavour. This should remind you of oysters, and of course it's the perfect match with all kinds of seafood. Reduced to a very reasonable £7.43.

The next is scrumptious. It's the Domaine Oullieres 2009 (2) from the little known Coteaux d'Aix, and it's made from a blend of Grenache Blanc and Vermentino grapes. I can't recall a southern French wine that packs quite so much fruity oomph - ripe, rounded and delightfully crisp. This really is the perfect wine for sitting in the garden in the sun, maybe with a few English strawberries to hand. Down to £8.33.

Bergerac is becoming quite a well-known appellation, and goes on improving every year. This Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure 2009 (3) has the grassiness of Sauvignon and the richness of Semillon. Again, sunshine in a bottle. Reduced to £8.96.

When I saw that the Sancerre 2008 from the superb Les Perriers estate was priced at £14.25 I had serious doubts. Who would pay that when they could have a high quality New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for a pound or so less? …

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