Magazine article The Spectator

BOOKENDS - the Last Laugh

Magazine article The Spectator

BOOKENDS - the Last Laugh

Article excerpt

In July, the world's most famous restaurant, elBulli, closes, to reopen in 2014 as a 'creative centre'. Rough luck on the million-odd people who try for one of 8,000 reservations a year. It's also a blow for the eponymous young cooks of Lisa Abend's The Sorcerer's Apprentices (Simon & Schuster, £18.99), the 45 stag iaires who labour in Ferran Adria's kitchen for a season in the hope of sharing in the magic.

Ferran, you see, is no mere cook.

With him, 'hot turns into cold, sweet into savoury, solid into liquid o r a i r '.

The stag iaires have a dog's life by this riveting account: tedious, repetitive work for no pay. They rarely talk to the great man.

They don't taste the dishes. The playfulness on the elBulli plate isn't reflected backstage. But by dint of working for free, they make Ferran's labour-intensive fancies economically feasible. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.