Magazine article The New Yorker

Proustian

Magazine article The New Yorker

Proustian

Article excerpt

When Leonard Lauder, the chairman emeritus of the Whitney, first saw the menu at Untitled, Danny Meyer's new restaurant at the museum, he was less concerned with what was on it--pole-caught tuna salad on rye, mushroom-and-goat-cheese omelette, and other coffee-shop staples modified to meet contemporary tastes--than with what was missing. "I called him and I said, 'Danny, how can you have all the other stuff on the menu--Reuben sandwiches, root beer--and not have a chocolate egg cream?' " Lauder said recently at the museum, over a lunch of an Untitled Burger with aged Cheddar and roasted tomatoes, served with artisanal pickles.

The kitchen had taken Lauder's mandate to heart and developed an updated chocolate syrup to stand in for the Brooklyn classic, Fox's U-Bet. He was back to sample its efforts, and had been joined by Marshall Rose, the real-estate developer and chairman emeritus of the New York Public Library. Rose, who ordered a grilled cheese sandwich, explained that his expertise dated from the early nineteen-fifties, when he worked as a soda jerk at Irving's luncheonette, in Brighton Beach. "For my fiftieth birthday, my late wife re-created Coney Island in our living room, and I made chocolate egg creams for forty people," he said. "Even if they didn't want them, I served them."

Rose was born in Brooklyn, and admitted to a partiality for the borough, but said that it didn't spring from nostalgia. "There's a new Brooklyn, where my stepdaughter hangs out," he said. (For the past eleven years, Rose has been married to Candice Bergen, the actress.) "You go out on Saturday to Bedford Avenue, any of those places, and it's just wonderful. We go there probably more than Manhattan." Lauder had been to Brooklyn recently, too: his massage therapist had recommended Dizzy's Diner, in Park Slope, and Lauder and Rose ventured there to sample the egg cream. "Marshall and I have been friends forever, and one of the things we take great pleasure in is doing the unusual--tasting things that are unusual, and having unusual experiences," Lauder said. Fifteen-odd years ago, they went hiking in Catalonia. "We followed the trail up through the Pyrenees, and had an incredible experience," Lauder said. "I never saw much of Marshall's face, however, because he was in better shape than I. I saw mainly his behind. …

Search by... Author
Show... All Results Primary Sources Peer-reviewed

Oops!

An unknown error has occurred. Please click the button below to reload the page. If the problem persists, please try again in a little while.