Magazine article The New Yorker

Legend Bar & Restaurant

Magazine article The New Yorker

Legend Bar & Restaurant

Article excerpt

When you go to another country, it's best to be adaptable. If you visit India, for instance, you will have a better time if you relinquish the concept of queues, and just accept that large groups move into small spaces there as an amoeba, not in a line. Fight it and you will only suffer: resistance is futile. Legend Bar & Restaurant is not in another country, it is in Chelsea, but it serves food from several other places; namely, China, Vietnam, Japan, and Thailand. It is advisable, though, to go there with the flexibility you might reserve for foreign travelif you arrive expecting logic and efficiency, you will leave feeling frustrated. But if you simply shrug your shoulders when a dish ordered at another table arrives at yours (or vice versa) and you are braced for a long wait (thirty minutes, on a recent evening, before a beverage order was taken), you will be free to savor the food, which is well worth the journey. (For the armchair traveller, Legend does offer delivery.)

The Dan Dan noodles, springy and toothsome, with a funky, savory sauce of fermented bean paste and ground porkan earthy proto-Bologneseremind you that pasta originated in China, not Italy. …

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