Magazine article Out

Ice, Ice Baby

Magazine article Out

Ice, Ice Baby

Article excerpt

FOR ICE WINES. THE HARVEST IS NOW.

Add one more item to the long list of excellent traditions threatened by global warming: ice wine. Many of these delectable dessert wines are produced in Canada, where the grapes are harvested only when the temperature has reached -8 degrees Celsius, a delicate balancing act of geography and climate. In Ontario, which is in the same latitudinal range as southern France, the summers are warm enough to grow vines, and the winters cold enough to freeze the grapes. Pressed while still frozen, the result is in an unctuous marvel of complexity- sweet and tart in the same mouthful. It's difficult to make - yielding one drop of ice wine for every grape, according to Louise Wilson at Peller Estates in the Niagara Peninsula, where they wait until the temperature is -10 degrees Celsius to pick the fruit. (This, in case you were wondering, accounts for the bone-chilling price. …

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