Magazine article The Spectator

One White among the Reds

Magazine article The Spectator

One White among the Reds

Article excerpt

A unusual offer with only one white wine, and also the first Sancerre(1) I have offered in years and years. Every cellar should have some Sancerre in it. It is one of the classic wines of the French experience and the explosion in prices over the last five years (which explains why I discovered I was down to my last bottle) is attributable to greedy Parisian drinkers rather than buyers in the Far East. Only those who have tried to buy it recently will realise that L7.25 is a very reasonable price indeed for a high-class example. So much excellent sauvignon blanc from the former colonies and New World is so assertive that it is easy to forget what a mild, subtle and delicious drink awaits those with the patience to find a good Sancerre and the money to buy it. The panel tasted many other white wines from many different areas this month, but they all seemed vulgar and clumsy beside this plucky little wine.

Now for the reds. Gabriel Liogier's 1996 Syrah(2) from the Pays d'Oc is good value in the sense of providing masses of taste for your money. …

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