Magazine article Sunset

Going Global in Denver

Magazine article Sunset

Going Global in Denver

Article excerpt


The world becomes bite-size along a 4-mile strip of Federal Boulevard

Take a drive down Federal Boulevard and you'll encounter dozens of small restaurants specializing in world-- spanning cuisines. We list our favorites from five ethnic categories; all are casual and inexpensive and offer sit-down service as well as takeout. Expect to wait for tables, since reservations are generally not accepted; call ahead for large parties.

Start your world travels on the north end of Federal at El Mercadito, near West 31st Avenue. After perusing the cheese case, butcher counter, and well-stocked Hispanic food aisles of the little market, snag one of the few tables and pick your passion from the lengthy Mexican menu. Choices run the range from racy menudo to lime-- washed shrimp ceviche; make room for terrific soft corn-- tortilla tacos al carbon sandwiching tasty and tender meats.

Meander south on Federal toward West 25th Avenue, and take in the intoxicating aroma of freshly roasted Socorro green chilies that permeates the Southwestern-- styled dining room at Jack-n-Grill. Ownerchef Jack Martinez Sr. prepares the city's hottest green chili daily. 'A meal without green chili is not a meal; mine is homestyle and made with love," he says. Other New Mexican standouts, such as the vibrantly flavored calabacitas and freshly shucked corn off the cob (in season) doused with chili powder, hot sauce, and butter, are just as swoonworthy.

Empress Seafood & Dim Sum Restaurant is located one block east of Federal on West Alameda Avenue. This sprawling, chaotic space is best known for its heaps of marvelous dim sum served all day long. …

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