Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two Ithaka

Magazine article The New Yorker

Tables for Two Ithaka

Article excerpt

48 Barrow St. (727-8886)--"Wow, this place is really far out!" a Gucci-clad, under-thirty-something was recently heard to say as she and her companion wandered into this old-fashioned hideaway, which is tucked next to a stoop on one of the West Village's leafier streets. They marvelled at the plainness of the dining room, with its whitewashed walls and exposed beams, and then headed past the kitchen into a pretty covered garden decorated with an Aegean mural and a motley assortment of potted plants. Older diners who can remember the time when an authentic Greek taverna looked like an authentic Greek taverna will feel as if they were back in some waterfront spot in Piraeus, expecting Melina Mercouri to come swivelling down the pier.

The restaurant takes its name from the island that Odysseus spent so many years trying to get home to, and there's probably nothing on the menu that would have surprised him when he got there. …

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